The History of Licorice
Licorice is not a recent
discovery. The ancient Egyptians used it as a pharmaceutical, and copious
supplies were found in King Tut’s tomb. Egyptian hieroglyphics record the use
of licorice as a popular beverage among the men of the time.
Manuscripts from 360 A.D. talk of
licorice helping eye ailments, skin diseases, coughs, and loss of hair.
Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar are on record as endorsing the benefits
of eating licorice. Since the 14th century, it has been used to soothe coughs,
colds, and bronchitis.
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LICORICE ROOTS |
Napoleon Bonaparte found licorice
soothing during battle; he allegedly ate so much of it that his teeth turned
black. (Don’t worry. The amount of licorice found in most of today’s licorice
candy will not discolour your teeth.)
Modern licorice candy dates from
17th century Holland. At the time, Holland was one of the world’s most powerful
countries. Her intrepid sailors spread this wonderful delicacy to other
European nations. Today, licorice candy is manufactured throughout Europe,
America, and Australia.
The Modern scientific Health
Benefits of Licorice
Licorice is especially useful in
fighting bronchitis, upper respiratory catarrh, and coughs. It stimulates mucus
production and helps to loosen sticky phlegm. It also contains a chemical that
has cough-suppressant properties.
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THE LICORICE PLANT & FLOWER |
Licorice also helps reduce stomach
acid and increases mucus secretion in the gastric tract, soothing irritation
and inflammation. It can be used to fight heartburn, indigestion, and gastric
and duodenal ulcers. It may also shorten the healing time of mouth ulcers.
Small amounts of licorice, such as
those found in candies, do not pose a risk. However, licorice is a powerful
drug, and serious health problems can result from taking it at medicinal levels
for long periods of time.
Long back in Italy was a saying, Ladies:
"(L'amore e' un sogno, dolce come il
latte e la Liquirizia)
Love is a dream, sweet as milk and Licorice”
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ITALIAN LICORICE SINCE 1731 |
Quick Facts About Licorice
The licorice plant, a shrub, is
officially a weed. It is about four feet tall with purplish flowers and grows
in hot, dry places.
Licorice root is one of the most
popular herbs in the world. Its botanical name comes from the Greek words
meaning "sweet root."
The ancient Greeks, Egyptians,
Chinese, and Hindus recognized the natural medicinal qualities of licorice.
Licorice helps relieve the pains that accompany certain types of ulcers, and it
is good for the adrenal glands.
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LICORICE |
Carbenoxolone, a compound derived
from licorice root, may help slow the effects of aging on the brain. Licorice
root is a botanical ingredient in modern Chinese medicines used to manage
cancers. Current research conducted at Rutgers, the State University of New
Jersey, supports the use of licorice in the treatment of prostate and breast
cancer.
In the United States, anise seed
is a popular substitute flavouring for licorice. Although the anise seed has an
unmistakable licorice flavour, it is not related to the European plant whose
roots are the source of true licorice.
The root of the drink
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MEDECIN MAN |
The medicinal use of licorice can
be traced back to many ancient civilizations. Babylonians used it some 4000
years ago as a drink to strengthen the body and its immune system. Ancient
Egyptians would prepare a licorice drink as a ritual to honour the spirits of
the Pharaohs. Raw ErkSous was also found in the tomb of the ancient Egyptian
Pharaoh Tutankhamun.
Ancient Egyptian doctors used to
mix ErkSous with various medicines to treat stomach and liver problems,” said
Dr. Mohamed Samy, an expert in alternative medicine, who practices herbal
medicine.
“The Greeks, Romans and later the
Arabs used it as well to treat coughs, indigestion, vomiting, stomach pains and
general digestive ailments. Its health benefits have been mentioned in various
old scrolls.”
The benefits of ErkSous
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LICORICE ALLSORTS |
ErkSous, extracted from the root
of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a plant with blue flowers, has Licorice flower distinct
sweet flavour. It contains sugar, potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus and
others minerals.
Until today Egyptians drink ErkSous to quench their thirst and for its health benefits.
“ErkSous strengthens the immune
system,” said Mohamed Ibrahim, a spice shop owner and herbal medicine
practitioner from Khan-Khalil. “It is a natural antibiotic that
helps treat infections in the respiratory system.” that I greatly recommend to my clients, this sweet beverage can help and has no side effects.
“It is also very useful for coughs
and throat soars. Some people used it as well to regulate the digestive system
and for constipation,” added Ibrahim.
Clank.. clink.. clank.. clink…
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THE ERKSOUS VENDOR PAINTING BY C. CHAROBIM (1894-1975) |
The rhythmic clanking of his cymbals resonates distinctively through the thick noise of Cairo’s busy downtown streets on hot summer days.
ErkSous, a healthy cold drink sold by the glass in the streets of Cairo and across the country.
When a thirsty passerby will stops the ErkSous Street Vendor for a cold ErkSous drink, the street vendor, in his baggy Turkish-style pants, thick cloth belt, little vest, and rubber boots, tilts his heavy ice-filled copper container decorated with a bunch of colourful plastic flowers that is strapped to his chest, and pours the brownish juice into a glass held way below his waist so as to foam up the liquid.
After rinsing the used glass with a dash of water sprinkled from a plastic jug slung over his shoulder, he tucks it back into a small rimmed tray fixed to one hip, and then bangs his cymbals again.
Preparing the drink
Preparing ErkSous is very easy and
only takes a few hours to make.
A ErkSous Vendor
from Souhag in Upper Egypt, has been doing it for years. He buys the raw
ingredient from the spice shop. He places it in a bowl and sprays it with water
and sodium carbonate, leaving to sit over night for seven or eight hours until
it ferments.
Licorice Root Sodium carbonate
helps in the fermenting process. ErkSous original color is light brown but
turns dark as a chemical reaction to the sodium carbonate and the water.
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ROAMING VENDOR |
“The next morning, He rub the ErkSous
together a little in his hands until it turns dark in colour,” a vendor, who
learned the trade of making and selling ErkSous from his father". He then places
the raw ErkSous in a sieve lined with fine gauze fabric, and pours water over
it. The product is a drink ready to be served cold.
Many Egyptian families prepare
this favoured drink in their homes. Some say making it themselves is cheaper
than buying it, while others feel it is more hygienic than drinking it from a
street Vendor.
The demand and consumption of ErkSous
vary according to the time of the year.
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Licorice, Kharoub and Sobia Cart |
Our sales of raw ErkSous go up
especially in the summer and of course during Ramadan,” said a spice shop owner
in Shubra, adding that his
customers generally buy depending on the size of the family.
Sales increase in summer because ErkSous
is served ice cold and is therefore very refreshing when the temperatures soar.
During Ramadan, Egyptians also drink more ErkSous because it helps them prepare
for the next day’s fast, as it lessens their thirst.
Times are changing
Today however, things are changing
for the wandering ErkSous Vendors. Many have given up this job, finding it
difficult to walk the streets with the heavy urns on their backs amidst Cairo’s
crowded streets and traffic. Others on the other hand have opened juice shops
where they can sell a larger assortment of drinks that better suits the demand
of customers.
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MODERN TIME ERKSOUS AND OTHER JUICES VENDOR ON CART |
Life is hard nowadays and with the
hot weather in the summer, the traffic and the bustling streets, who could
stand walking around all day with that weight on their back,” said a juice shop
owner in El-Sayeda. “That’s why my dad and I decided to open this shop to sell ErkSous
and other refreshments as well.”
Other Vendors did not give up wandering the streets completely. Instead they have opted for a wheeled cart to
help them reduce some of their works’ strain.
In the past the city was not so crowded with people and cars, summer were not that harsh and the pollution was much less, I was also much younger and had a better health, so it wasn’t difficult for me to walk around all
day, but nowadays things are different.
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COLOURED DRAWING ON COPPER |
After selling ErkSous for many years
in the streets the smiling vendor said, I built this cart with wheels, which makes it a lot
easier for me now to walk around from street to street without getting too
tired. It also allows me to sell more than one type of drink at the same time,
so today for example I have ErkSous, Tamr Hindi (a tamarind fruit ice drink)
and sobia (a sweet drink made of grinded rice, coconut, sugar and milk mixed
together in water). Also I have blocks of ice in the cart, to keep the drinks
nice and cool.”
Parts of Article inspired by an Ingrid Wassmann blog.