Sunday, December 18, 2016

Dates the Fruit

DATES 
Majestic palm tree
Phoenix dactylifera, commonly known as date or date palm, is a flowering plant species in the palm family, Arecaceae, cultivated for its edible sweet fruit. Although its place of origin is unknown because of long cultivation, it probably originated from lands around Iraq.  The species is widely cultivated and is naturalized in many tropical and subtropical regions worldwide Date trees typically reach about 70–75 feet (21–23 m) in height growing singly or forming a clump with several stems from a single root system. The leaves are 4–6 meters (13–20 ft) long, with spines on the petiole, and pinnate, with about 150 leaflets. The leaflets are 30 cm (12 in) long and 2 cm (0.79 in) wide. The full span of the crown ranges from 6–10 m (20–33 ft).


The species name dactylifera "date-bearing" comes from the Greek words daktylos (δάκτυλος), which means "date" (also "finger"), and fero (φέρω), which means "I bear”.

History of dates

Dry Dates
Dates have been a staple food of the Middle East and the Indus Valley for thousands of years. There is archaeological evidence of date cultivation in eastern Arabia in 6000 BCE. They are believed to have originated around what is now Iraq, and have been cultivated since ancient times from Mesopotamia to prehistoric Egypt, possibly as early as 4000 BCE. The Ancient Egyptians used the fruits to make date wine, and ate them at harvest.

There is also archeological evidence of date cultivation in Mehrgarh around 7000 BCE, a Neolithic civilization in what is now western Pakistan. Evidence of cultivation is continually found throughout later civilizations in the Indus Valley, including the Harappan period 2600 to 1900 BCE.   

In later times, traders spread dates around South West Asia, northern Africa, and Spain. The Spaniards introduced dates into Mexico and California in 1765, around Mission San Ignacio.

A date palm cultivar, known as Judean date palm is renowned for its long-lived orthodox seed, which successfully sprouted after accidental storage for 2000 years. This particular seed is presently reputed to be the oldest viable seed, but the upper survival time limit of properly stored seeds remains unknown.   

Fossil records show that the date palm has existed for at least 50 million years.     


Dates

Red Dates,
Traditionally eaten by Copts in Egypt
Symbol of the martyr's during Nyrouz
The fruit is known as a date. The fruit's English name (through Old French), as well as the Latin species name dactylifera, both come from the Greek word for "finger", dáktulos, because of the fruit's elongated shape. Dates are oval-cylindrical, 3–7 cm long, and 2–3 cm (0.79–1.18 in) diameter, and when ripe, range from bright red to bright yellow in color, depending on variety. Dates contain a single stone about 2–2.5 cm (0.79–0.98 in) long and 6–8 mm (0.24–0.31 in) thick.

Three main cultivar groups of date exist: soft (e.g. 'Barhee', 'Halawy', 'Khadrawy', 'Medjool'), semi-dry (e.g. 'Dayri', 'Deglet Noor', 'Zahdi'), and dry (e.g. 'Thoory'). The type of fruit depends on the glucose, fructose, and sucrose content.

The date palm is dioecious, having separate male and female plants. They can be easily grown from seed, but only 50% of seedlings will be female and hence fruit bearing, and dates from seedling plants are often smaller and of poorer quality. Most commercial plantations thus use cuttings of heavily cropping cultivars. Plants grown from cuttings will fruit 2–3 years earlier than seedling plants.

Yellow dates before turning Brown
 Dates are naturally wind pollinated, but in both traditional oasis horticulture and in the modern commercial orchards they are entirely pollinated manually. Natural pollination occurs with about an equal number of male and female plants. However, with assistance, one male can pollinate up to 100 females. Since the males are of value only as pollinators, this allows the growers to use their resources for many more fruit-producing female plants. Some growers do not even maintain any male plants, as male flowers become available at local markets at pollination time. Manual pollination is done by skilled laborers on ladders, or by use of a wind machine. In some areas such as Iraq the pollinator climbs the tree using a special climbing tool that wraps around the tree trunk and the climber's back (called تبلية in Arabic) to keep him attached to the trunk while climbing.

Dates ripen in four stages, which are known throughout the world by their Arabic names kimri (unripe), khlal (full-size, crunchy), rutab (ripe, soft), tamr (ripe, sun-dried).   

Date Pit
Dates are an important traditional crop in Iraq, Arabia, and North Africa west to Morocco. Dates are also mentioned more than 50 times in the Bible and 20 times in the Qur'an. In Islamic culture, dates and yogurt or milk are traditionally the first foods consumed for Iftar after the sun has set during Ramadan. Dates (especially Medjool and Deglet Noor) are also cultivated in America in southern California, Arizona and southern Florida in the United States and in Sonora and Baja California in Mexico.

Date palms can take 4 to 8 years after planting before they will bear fruit, and produce viable yields for commercial harvest between 7 and 10 years. Mature date palms can produce 68 to 176 kilograms of dates per harvest season, although they do not all ripen at the same time so several harvests are required. In order to get fruit of marketable quality, the bunches of dates must be thinned and bagged or covered before ripening so that the remaining fruits grow larger and are protected from weather and pests such as birds.


Fruit food uses 

Common commercial Dates
Dry or soft dates are eaten out-of-hand, or may be pitted and stuffed with fillings such as almonds, walnuts, pecans, candied orange and lemon peel, tahini, marzipan or cream cheese. Pitted dates are also referred to as stoned dates. Partially dried pitted dates may be glazed with glucose syrup for use as a snack food. Dates can also be chopped and used in a range of sweet and savory dishes, from tajines (tagines) in Morocco to puddings, ka'ak (types of Arab cookies) and other dessert items. Date nut bread, a type of cake, is very popular in the United States, especially around holidays. Dates are also processed into cubes, paste called "'ajwa", spread, date syrup or "honey" called "dibs" or "rub" in Libya, powder (date sugar), vinegar or alcohol. Vinegar made from dates is a traditional product of the Middle East.    Recent innovations include chocolate-covered dates and products such as sparkling date juice, used in some Islamic countries as a non-alcoholic version of champagne, for special occasions and religious times such as Ramadan. When Muslims break fast in the evening meal of Ramadan, it is traditional to eat a date first.
Dates can also be dehydrated, ground and mixed with grain to form a nutritious stock feed.
In Southeast Spain (where a large date plantation exists including UNESCO protected Palmeral of Elche) dates (usually pitted with fried almond) are served wrapped in bacon and shallow fried.

It is also used to make Jallab.

Dates provide a wide range of essential nutrients, and are a very good source of dietary potassium. The sugar content of ripe dates is about 80%; the remainder consists of protein, fiber, and trace elements including boron, cobalt, copper, fluorine, magnesium, manganese, selenium, and zinc, The glycemic index for three different varieties of dates are 35.5 (khalas), 49.7 (barhi), and 30.5 (bo ma'an).       
The caffeic acid glycoside 3-O-caffeoylshikimic acid (also known as dactylifric acid) and its isomers, are enzymic browning substrates found in dates. 

Nomads (Bedouins) in Egypt deserts are know to live on a diet of dry dates and goats milk.




      
Other uses of the fruits 

In Pakistan, viscous thick syrup made from the ripe fruits is used as a coating for leather bags and pipes to prevent leaking.

Uses of other parts of the plant 

Where craft traditions still thrive, such as in Oman, the palm tree is the most versatile of all indigenous plants, and virtually every part of the tree is utilized to make functional items ranging from rope and baskets to beehives, fishing boats, and traditional dwellings.   

Seeds 
Variety of Dates in Cairo market 

Date seeds are soaked and ground up for animal feed. Their oil is suitable for use in soap and cosmetics    Date palm seeds contain 0.56–5.4% lauric acid. They can also be processed chemically as a source of oxalic acid. The seeds are also burned to make charcoal for silversmiths, and can be strung in necklaces. Date seeds are also ground and used in the manner of coffee beans, or as an additive to coffee. Experimental studies have shown that feeding mice with the aqueous extract of date pits exhibit anti-genotoxic and reduce DNA damage induced by N-Nitroso-N-methylurea.  

Fruit clusters 

Stripped fruit clusters are used as brooms. Recently the floral stalks have been found to be of ornamental value in households.    

Sap 

Drying dates in the sun
Sweet sap tapped from date palm in West Bengal, India, In large parts of Northern India the local species of wild date palm, Phoenix sylvestris, is tapped for palm wine, while in Bangladesh, Pakistan and other countries in the region it is now mostly tapped for jaggery and palm syrup production. Wild date palms are also tapped in large parts of Africa for palm wine. The process of palm tapping involves the cutting of the unopened flower stalk and then fastening a bottle gourd, clay or plastic vessel on to it. The palm sap then collects in the vessel and is harvested in the early morning hours. If a few drops of limejuice are added to the palm sap, fermentation can be stopped and the sap can then be boiled to form palm syrup, palm sugar, jaggery and numerous other edible products derived from the syrup. In India and Pakistan, North Africa, Ghana, and Ivory Coast, date palms are tapped for the sweet sap, which is converted into palm sugar (known as jaggery or gur), molasses or alcoholic beverages. In North Africa the sap obtained from tapping palm trees is known as lāgbī. If left for a sufficient period of time (typically hours, depending on the temperature) lāgbī easily becomes an alcoholic drink.    citation needed     Special skill is required when tapping the palm tree so that it does not die.

Leaves 

Palm tree bearing red dates (Zaagloul)
Date palm leaves are used for Palm Sunday in the Christian religion. In North Africa, they are commonly used for making huts. Mature leaves are also made into mats, screens, baskets and fans. Processed leaves can be used for insulating board. Dried leaf petioles are a source of cellulose pulp, used for walking sticks, brooms, fishing floats and fuel. Leaf sheaths are prized for their scent, and fibre from them is also used for rope, coarse cloth, and large hats. The leaves are also used as a lulav in the Jewish holiday of Sukkot.

Suite American dates
Young date leaves are cooked and eaten as a vegetable, as is the terminal bud or heart, though its removal kills the palm. The finely ground seeds are mixed with flour to make bread in times of scarcity. The flowers of the date palm are also edible. Traditionally the female flowers are the most available for sale and weigh 300–400 grams. The flower buds are used in salad or ground with dried fish to make a condiment for bread.

Wood 

Date palm wood is used for posts and rafters for huts; it is lighter than coconut and not very durable.


Thursday, November 24, 2016

Egyptian Foreign words


Italian Egyptians are a community with a history that goes all the way back to Roman times. Like Greeks, Maltese, and Jewish people among other nationalities and ethnic groups, they were integrated into the Egyptian society and have peacefully coexisted ever since. 

Metropolitan Alexandria

The story begins in 36 BCE when the last Queen of ancient Egypt, Cleopatra, married the Roman, Mark Antony, to whom she offered her country as a ‘dowry’. Egypt then remained part of the Roman Empire for seven long centuries. Many people from the Italian peninsula moved to live there during this time.
Since then, there has been a continuous presence of Italian Egyptians and their descendants. For the new generations, there was a considerable amount of cultural assimilation and influence, which went both ways. There was even a Venetian Quarter in Cairo.

After Napoleon I, the Italian community in Alexandria, and in Egypt in general, began growing exponentially. The 1882 census recorded 18,665 Italians in the country; just before World War II, they had reached 55,000 — forming the second largest expatriate community in Egypt after the Greek. Most Italian Egyptians resided in Alexandria and Cairo, and consisted primarily of merchants, artisans, and professionals, along with a large number of workers. We know from history that whenever different nationalities, cultures, and languages mix, words happen to be borrowed in-between them — like Creole and Pidgin languages for instance. In linguistics, Nativization is the process whereby a language gains native speakers. This necessarily happens when a second language used by adult parents becomes the native language of their children. One way or another, almost all immigrants, expats, and their children, are affected by the language of the country in which they reside. Though, again, this interlanguage process goes both ways.

Roba-Bekia
So just like vitesse, ascenseur, gateau, maquillage, soutien, Beau Lac, and Chateau Neuf (شطانوف:  إحدى قرى مركز أشمون التابع لمحافظة المنوفية ) were borrowed from French to the Egyptian Arabic dialect, there are words that were borrowed from Italian, most of which have survived to this very day. The following is a list of said words that I grew up using or hearing without really thinking much about their origin.

1
Bagno: Bath.


2
Ballo: Dance or ball, denote chaotic commotion or noise.
3
Ballone: From Pallone, Balloon.
4
Banzeena: From Benzina, Gas station.
5
Barouka: From Parrucca, Wig. 
6
Belyatsho: From Pagliacco, Clown.
7
Bicicletta:Bicycle 

8
Bo’: From Bocca, mouth.
9
Cameraira: From Cameriera, Chambermaid.
10
Carro: Chariot or wagon (also in Spanish).
11
Carton: From cartone, Pasteboard.
12
Falso: False or fake. used to describing fake goods. 
13
Fattura: Invoice or bill.
14
Gelati: From Gelato, Ice cream.
15
Goma: From Gomma, Rubber.
16
Gonnella: Skirt

17
Gwanti: From Guanto, Glove.
18
Lista: List (Also in Spanish).
19
Locanda: Hotel.  

20
Makeena / Makana: From Macchina, Machine.
21
Marca: Brand, make.
22
Meckaniki: From Meccanico, Mechanic.
23
Medalia: From Medaglia, Medal.
24
Mobelia: From Mobilia, Furniture.
25
Prova: Rehearsal, test.
26
Roba Becchia: From Roba Vecchia, junk.
27
Rochetta: From Ricetta, Prescription.
28
Sala: Hall or reception area.
29
Salata: From Insalata, Salad.
30
Stabena: From Sta Bene, Is it fine/OK? 
31
Tanda: From Tenda, a cover or sort of curtain.
32
Tarasina: Balcony or terrace (mainly used in Alexandria).
33
Tasa: From Tazza, Frying pan.
34
Teatro: Theater.

35
Torta: Cake, pie.

36
Varanda: From Veranda, Balcony.
37
Vaza: From Vaso, Vase.
38
Vella: Villa.

39
Vitrina: From Vetrina, Shop window.





Original Article received by email from unknown author

Wednesday, November 2, 2016

Dandorma

Gellati, galata, glaces, clo-clo, cassata, are all names by which ice cream has toured our streets, cooled our summer promenades, made some specialized parlours famous, and been immortalized in songs from as far back as the forties by Abdul Wahab playing a dentist to the pretty Ra'ya Ibrahim suffering from a toothache, to the more recent film Ice Cream fi Glym. In fairly typical Egyptian manner, the origin of the word seems to have been no cause for much discourse of ethnic nature, and in even more typical Alexandrian fashion, two more words were equally used, their specialty all the more Alexandrian and sought-out in the festival season by visitors from Cairo and elsewhere: namely the Dandorma (of Turkish descent) and the granita, a variation on the sorbet. The word Bouza did not make it across the borders to mean ice cream as in its native Syria, and remained quite distinct from what vocabulary we instinctively and almost inexplicably choose whether or not to embrace and adopt.

Ice Cream - Kaymak

En passant, in the mid seventies, after once having successfully launched the clo clo, Fluckiger introduced the frozen Parfait, but what with chocolate mousse and profiteroles already existing desserts, the parfait failed to impress. Perhaps a too perfect, difficult to pronounce Frenchy name may have antagonized the casual customer by then not as francophone as his earlier counterpart. After all, gelati and Turkish dandorma were easier on the tongue, as were many words derived from the Italian. Granita, often pronounced garanita, would jocularly sometimes be used as an answer to the question: “Gara eh?” (what happened?) to which garanita was assumed to mean “nothing (nita) happened (gara)”. However, one fact remains: there is no commonly known word for ice cream, at least in our everyday language of which one is really aware.


Fluckinger
In time, when ice cream became an industry, one of the first to package and sell its products, at least in sanitary conditions one could trust, was Groppi. Small-sized containers sold in fridges placed by the entrance of the better known grocers such as Menassa, Eino and Simonds, as well as other patisseries leave a typical olfactory memory of their mango and strawberry flavors in particular. Along the Corniche, Groppi was not an unknown brand to be feared, and carts drawn by street vendors were acknowledged safe and of higher quality than some ice cream sold in parlors. Later still, “soft ice cream” would break new ground around the country, and in Alexandria machines were set up in Montaza and Maamoura. They had their fans, especially of children since the technology of dispensing the ice cream through a machine was considered new and exciting. However, they did not find favor for very long and soon a much improved industry would take over.



During the golden years of Alexandrian gourmet refinement, and elite confisseurs, Maison Baudrot offered a specialty of fruit-shaped ice cream presented in a basket made of croquant, a nut and honey-based sweet that chefs were adept at wielding into different shapes, such as cones that they would fill with chocolate from a piping bag. Pastroudis was famous for its fruit sorbets, inspired perhaps by the necessity for a cooling less creamy glace to scoop and sip through a straw as one sat outdoors rather than in a salon de thé such as were Le Petit Trianon and Baudrot.

Délices too had its own variety of ice cream that came in what was called a Bombe that would be dispatched to complement a typical children's birthday party menu complete with Louis Quatorze and Alexandre le Grand canapés for the more Europeanized Alexandrian already familiar with the specialty from other similar events. The Bombe would typically arrive in a heavy fridge with insular lining looking like some piece of army artillery, and which was sure to cause great glee on arrival at the birthday site. Often, marrons deguises (chocolate coated chestnuts) would be sent as a compliment “on the house”.

Cassatta 
Casatta, too was a favourite with many, and because it offered a variety of more than one flavour, and came in a single bar, flat shaped slab, it was easy and less messy to eat. Elite was famous for their Trois Petis Cochons: three scoops of multi flavored “home-made” ice cream presented in a mound. Asteria had its specialty of chocolat mou, topped with fresh cream and probably quite unique to this day. Ice cream soda: scoops of any flavour to taste placed in a tall glass, then flushed with soda water and served with grenadine sherbet, then stirred with an accompanying pair of drinking straws which often a cozy couple in a remote corner of Asteria would share, was also typically served.

Modern Ice Cream Parlours
Ice cream parlours, such as the earlier Garbis of great Alexandrian renown on La Gaieté Street in Ibrahimieh, followed by Saber in Ibrahimieh, originally on an adjacent street corner from the shop where the owner worked as a little boy and who became a success in Alexandria and with Cairenes in the summer adding his own touch of rice pudding topped with ice cream and nuts were always a treat to finish off a dinner had elsewhere in the city. Prices were affordable, and service pleasant and courteous. One had a choice between ice cream in a glass coupe or a plastic cup easier to drive or walk away with, or better still, scooped into a thin cone shaped crisp wafer. Apparently those were privy only to Alexandria, virtually unknown except to Cairenes who spent their summer in Agami, at least until very recently. Apparently these cornets used to be known as Shebbak el Bascote. Long ago, too, they used to sell them dipped in molasses, and place a coin inside the cone that would stick by virtue of the honey and be almost invisible to the eye. Children would rush to buy them and the lucky one would get the cone with the coin.


In Agami Bless, a small little shop by the name of Bisso was almost all there was by way of non packaged ice cream, that kept up the competition with other growing brands in fancy plastic containers such as Nestlé, Dolce, Hawaii, and more recently Mövenpick and Sultana. Sultana first set up shop in Kafr Abdou, before acquiring more widespread outlets in Cairo, Marina and Carrefour where they have a stand dedicated to chocolate ice cream. Apart from ice cream cakes, decorated with dried apricots and prunes in Ramadan, a month when Ice cream as dessert will only be favoured when the holy month occurs during the summer, Sultana also has a low sugar diabetic /diet variety, and a seyami line for the periods of Coptic fasting.

The word “mixte” once upon a time finally uttered after some hesitation between what an ice cream parlour had to offer, and often associated with the favourite combination of chocolate and milk, or lemon granita and strawberry sorbet, is now nostalgically a thing of the past. What with many flavors on the market such as guava, hibiscus (at Saber's), blackberry (if in season), apricot and melon, not to mention the introduction of Baskin Robbins' 33 FLAVORS in the 1990s which was an instant success. Given its prices, however, the success was not too long-lived. Gone too, are the biscuits cuillére, flanking ice cream scoops at Délices to which true to style Alexandrians preferred the equally French if more quaint and languorously evocative name of langue de chat.

Of all the fancy French ice creams, and the newer multi-national ones, the most popular today are the simple vanilla with mastic ice cream, sold in the small white biscuit, the large brown biscuit cone, or the small plastic cups. They are sold in modest parlours with white plastic chairs and tables placed on the kerb. Most commonly, however, cars will drive up to the tiny shop, and the waiter will deliver the ice cream right up to the car. That is part of the leisure of being Alexandrian.


Early picture of El Mahdy
Ice Cream Factory
Granita El Mahdy: The grandfather arrived from Upper Egypt on foot, a thirteen-year-old orphan in search of a means of livelihood to support the family that his father had left behind. El Mahdy needed to find work, as he couldn’t very well go back empty handed. He started working with a Greek man who sold ice cream in Bahari but, being an ambitious boy who already knew he wanted to start his own business, he walked along the Corniche in search of the perfect spot to set up his ice-cream kiosk. Glym was the place he finally chose, and he built a wooden kiosk and acquired a fridge in 1926. At first he would buy the ice cream from his Greek ex-employer and sell it, then his ambitious streak got the better of him and he began to think of making his own ice cream. He bought two barrels, one wooden and the other copper, and put the copper barrel inside the wooden one, filling the space in between with layers of salt and ice, just like they used to in the old days.

Soon it was time for experimentation with new flavors. El Mahdy used lemon juice, sugar and gelatin, but not milk, thinking that lemon and milk would not go well together. The result was not ice cream, but people loved it! He worked on this recipe, sold it in ice cream cones, and called it Dandorma. Then Mr. Glymonopoulos, a Greek whose mother was Italian, told him that in Italy they called it Granita. (Glymonopoulos owned a supermarket, and his villa was opposite to Shehab the Butcher’s now).



One day King Farouk looked out from the hotel opposite the kiosk, and saw a crowd around the kiosk. So he strolled down and bought himself a granita, and paid five pounds (which is still with the family). It was only when the people applauded that El Mahdy realized it was the king. From that time on, he was patronized by pashas and beys, while commoners didn’t frequent the area much, anyway.


Ice Cream Vendor 
The wife of Mustafa Fahmy Pasha asked El Mahdy why he didn’t have a shop, and he said that he could not get a license to open a shop on Mustafa Fahmy Street. She managed to get him the license, and permission to open a shop in the garage of Mustafa Fahmy Pasha. Eventually, he moved closer to the Corniche, and bought the shop they currently own in 1948. In addition to ice cream and granita, El Mahdy was the second place in Alexandria to make sugar cane juice, which was at first pressed manually. It was the first shop to switch to machine pressed juice. Now they also make mango and tangerine flavor granita, in addition to the original lemon flavor.

El Mahdy made granita for Sporting Club, and that is why many people will find that both granitas taste the same. In the 1960s a famous ful and falafel shop, Scheherazade, was next to El Mahdy, and it was an Alexandrian tradition to eat ful and falafel sandwiches then have the granita for dessert.

Original Ice Cream Vendor in Gamasa 

Mahmoud Ali Mahdy, the current owner, who is the grandson, has seen President Anwar el Sadat, and Gihan el Sadat, buy granita at El Mahdy (Sadat arrived in a sky blue Volks Wagon). He heard that President Gamal Abdel Nasser also came buy one day, but he didn’t see the late president himself. Amr Diab, the famous singer of the nineties, immortalized El Mahdy in the film Ice Cream fi Glym.

At the other end of town, in Bahari, Azza started with a Syrian but when he left Tarek Gamal’s grandfather took over the business, and now it has been expanding, with shops all over the city. Though not the first to open in Bahari (it opened in the 1960s, while Nezami and Makram have been there since the 1940s), Azza started as a cart. Only the best material is used: mastic from Greece, sahlab from Syria, and natural material rather than artificial colors. They have also added a date flavor imported from Iraq. Abla Kamel’s new movie, Bolteyya El ‘Ayma, was filmed at their branch next to the Yacht Club, and Nelly Karim in Akher el Donia was shown eating ice cream there.

Ice Cream with
Pistachio topping
Psychology and national character do come into play as regards success in the food and eating department, and Alexandrians seem to have a natural hunch for it, but it is not just that. A deep understanding that goes a long way back into a way of life rooted in the city's persona and its social heritage also contribute to the holistic ensemble of enabling factors for the common experience of the shared time and place.


Full Credit to the authors of the Original Articles from the site "Gastronomy" Bibliotheca Alexandrina

Wednesday, October 19, 2016

Double article - Quails / Benyamin

El- BIYASSA

Grilled Quails
Attarine is one of the most culturally mixed neighbourhoods of Alexandria. Essentially working class, it is close to the Cairo train station Mehatet Misr, so that migrants arriving from Upper Egypt or the countryside often just stepped off the train and sought rooms in nearby Attarine. In addition, there were a variety of inhabitants from the foreign communities, especially the Greeks and the Shawam, as the Lebanese and Syrians were called, as well as Jews. Lively and bustling, it is full of women calling to each other out of windows, and laundry hanging from the balconies to dry, along with the bunches of garlic and onion.


This is the colourful setting of Alexandria’s most famous quail restaurant. Originally owned by the Lebanese Elias, it took its name from its location. The tiny square which is a cloth and bales market by day, known as El Biyassa (from the Italian piazza, or square), is transformed by night into a grill, which offers quails, beqfiquoes and pigeons to people from all walks of life.


From September to November migrating quails are offered, but during the rest of the year only the raised local variety – not as tasty – can be had. The place is as simple as can be. Unassuming tables and chairs set in the small square, with the grill close by, and the cats weaving in and out of the tables and your legs.


The owner is now Egyptian, and the name of the restaurant is Malek el Semman (King of Quails) but nobody knows the name. It is called, as it has been for generations, El Biyassa, in another tongue La Piazza, which by force of habit and cross-cultural influence seems to have better stuck in the Alexandrian mind as to usurp the place of King of Quails.

********


BENYAMIN / MOHAMED AHMED

If Tamvaco and Clenzo changed their identity when they changed ownership, Benjamin rose to greater heights when it became Mohamed Ahmed. One of the most famous ful shops in Alexandria, Egypt.

Mohamed Ahmed really began in two places. This is how it happened. The senior Mohamed Ahmed started his business in 1918. His first shop was in Manshieh in Midan Street, which is now El Nasr Street. It was a ful and falafel shop which continued to function there until 1957.
Restaurent Mohamed Ahmed / Benyamin Alexandria

Benjamin started as a foul shop in 1932, on 17 Shakour Street off Ramleh Station. The shop was situated in its present location near the Jewish synagogue. Benjamin was a rabbi and it was convenient for him to be near his foul shop.

When he left Alexandria in 1957, he asked the two sons of Mohamed Ahmed if they wanted to buy him out. They bought his shop and still own it. The shop is still famous for its ful and falafel. However, new items have been added to the menu: fried cheese, lentil soup and eggs.


Falafel 
Its clientele are from all walks of life. Tourists and visitors to Alexandria make it a point to go and eat there. It is the Mecca of ful and falafel in Alexandria. Famous characters such as Queen Sophia of Spain, Prince Henrich of Denmark, Naguib Mahfouz the Egyptian Nobel Laureate, Demis Roussous the Alexandrian/Greek singer, Fouad el Mohandess the comedian, Soad Hosny the actress, Mustafa and Ali Amin the journalists, Ahmed Zoweil the Egyptian Nobel Laureate, and the children of Gamal Abdel Nasser have all patronized Mohamed Ahmed.

Ful or Foul
When Mustafa Amin walked one day into Mohamed Ahmed, nobody recognized him. He ate his meal and left. Two days later he wrote an article in the daily paper Al Akhbar in his column “Fikra” all about his experience in the eatery. He said that eating ful was like eating turkey. He pointed out that the shop caters for all kinds of people, and that ministers and porters are all treated the same.

In 1979 Benjamin’s daughter came to Alexandria. She went to the shop, and after she had eaten, she introduced herself to the owners. Every time she comes to Alexandria, she goes there to eat ful.

Credit goes back to Original Articles from the site "Gastronomy" Bibliotheca Alexandrina