Garments in the Pharaonic world

Garments in the Pharaonic world

Clothing materials

    The Egyptian climate with its hot summers and mild winters favored light clothing made from plant fibers, predominantly linen and in Roman times occasionally cotton, an import from India Wool was used to a lesser extent, and seldom by Egyptians proper.

Small amounts of silk were traded to the eastern Mediterranean possibly as early as the second half of the second millennium BCE and traces of silk have been found in Egyptian tombs.

Animal skins, above all leopard skins, were sometimes worn by priests and by pharaohs in their role as first servants of the god. Such outfits were found in Tutankhamen's tomb and were depicted quite frequently on the walls of tombs. At times kings and queens wore decorative ceremonial clothing adorned with feathers.

Production

The manufacture of clothes was apparently mostly women's work. It was generally done at home, but there were workshops run by noblemen or other men of means.

The most important textile was linen. It was produced from flax, the quality ranging from the finest woven linen, the byssus for royalty, to the coarse cloth peasants wore. People who were buried in mastabas or pyramids would not be satisfied with anything less than the best quality linen, jdm.j, after death as well.

Pepi I had a vision that his ka would ...be taken to this heaven... to the noble ones of the god, to those whom the god loves, who lean on their Dam-sceptres, the guardians of Upper Egypt, who clothe themselves with jdm.jt-linen, who live on figs, who drink of the wine, who anoint themselves with the best oil... and if a person was lucky he would be ...given as a boon of the king: royal linen, a garment, //////////, aAt-linen, fine and good [linen], /////// [without] end

Articles of dress

They wear tunics made of linen with fringes hanging about the legs, called "calasiris", and loose white woolen cloaks over these.

Ornaments used with dresses

Tutankhamen's tomb yielded many pieces of clothing: tunics, shirts, kilts, aprons and sashes, socks, head-dresses, caps, scarves, gauntlets and gloves, some of them with fine linen linings, others with separate index and middle fingers and a hole for the thumb. Underwear in the form of a triangular loincloth was also found.

If royals had a garment for every body part and for any occasion–even though statues and reliefs often show them wearing only a SnD.wt, the so-called kilt, and a crown–most of their subjects had to make do with much less. Clothes were expensive and in the hot Egyptian climate people often wore as little as possible. If we are to believe the depictions, at parties servants and slave girls wore little more than skimpy panties and jewelry though one may assume that the reason for this undress was not a lack of funds. Working women mostly dressed in a short kind of kalasiris. Men doing physical labor wore a loin-cloth, wide galabiyeh - like robes or, if they were working in the water, nothing at all. Children usually ran around nude during the summer months, and wore wraps and cloaks in winter when temperatures might fall below 10°C.

The gods had to be dressed as well. This was the duty of a small number of priests allowed to enter the holiest of holies, where the god's statue was. Nesuhor, commander of the fortress at Elephantine under Apries, took care that the temple of Khnum had all the servants necessary to serve the needs of the god:

I appointed weavers, maidservants and launderers for the august wardrobe of the great god and his divine ennead.

  

Fashion

The clothes were generally made of linen and kept simple: a short loincloth resembling a kilt for men, a dress with straps for women. These basic garments with minor variations accounting for fashion, social status and wealth did not change fundamentally throughout Egypt's history.

Fancy Dress & Ornaments

Very little sewing was done. The cloth was wrapped round the body and held in place by a belt. Its colour was generally whitish, in contrast to the colorful clothes foreigners wore in Egyptian depictions, although dyed cloth was not unknown.

Everyday clothing was mostly undecorated, though pleating was known since the Old Kingdom, when some dresses of upper class Egyptians were pleated horizontally. In the New Kingdom the pleats were often vertical, but pleating could be quite intricate. A Middle Kingdom piece of clothing displays three different types of pleating: one part is pleated with pleats a few centimeters apart, another with very narrow pleats and a third part is chevron-patterned, with horizontal and vertical pleats crossing each other. How the pleating was done is not known, but it is generally supposed to have been very labor intensive.

The length of the kilts varied, being short during the Old Kingdom and reaching the calf in the Middle Kingdom, when it was often supplemented with a sleeveless shirt or a long robe.

Herodotus called the robes worn by both sexes in Egypt kalasiris. Material and cut varied over the centuries, though the cloth of choice was always linen.

The kalasiris women wore might cover one or both shoulders or be worn with shoulder straps. While the top could reach anywhere from below the breast up to the neck, the bottom hem generally touched the calves or even the ankles. Some had short others were sleeveless. The fit might be very tight or quite loose. They were often worn with a belt, which held together the folds of cloth. 

They were sewn from a rectangular piece of cloth twice the desired garment length. An opening for the head was cut at the centre of the cloth, which was then folded in half. The lower parts of the sides were stitched together leaving openings for the arms.

Women's dresses were at times ornamented with beads. They covered the breasts most of the time, though there were periods when fashion left them bare.

Circular capes date back as far as the Old Kingdom. They were generally made of linen and had an opening for the head cut at the centre. They were often dyed, painted or otherwise decorated and covered little more than the shoulders. Shawls were sometimes worn during the New Kingdom.

The ancient Egyptians knew how to use starch. They used it to stick sheets of papyrus together. According to Pliny they made starch by mixing some of the finest wheaten flour with boiling water. They also soaked linen bandages in starch, which became hard and stiff when dried. It would be tempting to assume that they achieved the pleats in their clothes by using starch, but there is no evidence for that.

  

Laundering

They wear linen garments, which they are especially careful to have always fresh washed.

Cleanliness was apparently next to godliness in ancient Egypt. And who was closer to the gods than the pharaohs themselves. Since earliest historic times the titles of "chief washer of the palace" and "washer to the pharaoh" are known, and keeping the royal clothes lily white was the duty of the "chief bleacher."

Men and women wore perfumed cone on the tops of their heads.
The cone was usually made of ox tallow and myrrh and
as time passed melted and released a pleasant scent.

Manually washing clothes was hard work. Soap was unknown to the ancient Egyptians, so lye, made of castor oil and saltpetre or some such substances, or detergents made of soapwort or asphodel were used. The laundry was beaten, rinsed and wrung by pairs of workers. By 1200 BCE there were fireproof boilers in the washhouses, and the hot water lightened the workload. 

Many, above all the poorer people had no access to facilities and had to do their laundry under at times difficult conditions. Washing on the shore of the river or the bank of a canal, which had the advantage of not having to carry a lot of water in heavy earthen pots, but could sometime be dangerous:

The washer man launders at the riverbank in the vicinity of the crocodile. I shall go away, father, from the flowing water, said his son and his daughter, to a more satisfactory profession, one more distinguished than any other profession.

In the eyes of Kheti at least, washing women's clothing was not really work a man should be doing. He says disparagingly of the washer man:

He cleans the clothes of a woman in menstruation.

Mending

Before the advent of industrial production techniques, cheap overseas transportation and a Third World population with little choice but to work for peanuts, clothes made up a considerable part of one's living expenses. Even though the clothes of the Egyptians were lighter than those of Europeans and less critical to survival, they were careful not to ruin them, and when a garment got torn, it was probably the ancient Egyptian housewife who got her favorite needle out of her needle box, a knife and a piece of thread and settled down to mend it. Garments have been found which were mended a number of times and finally recycled and turned into something else.

Headdresses

If depictions are anything to go by, then ordinary Egyptians did not wear any headdress as a rule, similar to African peoples further south. The better off would put on wigs - perhaps just on special occasions. These grew to a remarkable size during the New Kingdom.

The pharaohs are always represented wearing crowns, but whether this is a pictorial convention or whether they did so in every day life cannot be verified.

Footwear

People living around the Mediterranean had little need for elaborate footwear, with exceptions like the Hittites in their Anatolian highlands who wore shoes with turned up toes, though in Egyptian reliefs Hittites are depicted unshod. The Egyptians went barefoot much of the time, but wore sandals on special occasions or when their feet were likely to get hurt. The sandals were tied with two thongs and, if they had a pointed tip this were often turned upwards. They were made of leather or rush woven or stitched together, and often had leather soles and straps.

The cheapest kind of sandals was affordable to all but the very poorest. Ipuwer in his Admonitions used the lack of sandals to describe the destitute that, in the topsy-turvy world of chaos he warned from, attained great wealth: He who could not afford sandals owns riches.

The kings wore at times very elaborately decorated sandals, and sometimes decorative gloves as well, but generally they were depicted barefoot, as were the gods.

Sandals made of gold have been found which cannot have been very comfortable to their wearers if they were worn at all. Among Tutankhamen's equipment there were 93 pieces of footwear. There were sandals made of wood with depictions of enemies on their soles, on which the king would tread with every step and another pair, which was fastened with buttons.

One of the changes in daily life, which occurred during the Middle and New Kingdoms, was the increasing use of sandals, above all where soldiers or travelers’ were concerned. In the story of The Two Brothers Anpu set out on a journey:

Then he took his staff and his sandals, as well as his clothes and his weapons, and he started to journey to the Valley of the Pine.

Sandals seem to have had an importance that mostly escapes us nowadays, symbolizing prosperity and authority. Thutmose III speaks of the countries he conquered, and possibly of the rest of the world as well, as all lands were under my sandals.

Among the oldest images of the dynastic period are depictions of the sandal-bearer of the pharaoh, and for the sixth dynasty official Weni this post was seemingly an important stage in a splendid career, mentioned twice in his autobiography.

Sandals were very closely and beautifully stitched up of rush, and usually soled with leather. A small bundle of rush was wound round by a rush thread, which at every turn pierced through the edge of a previous bundle. Thus these successive bundles were bound together edge to edge, and a flat surface built up. This was edged round in the same way. In basket making exactly the same principle was followed, with great neatness. The rush sandals soled with leather, leather sandals alone, and leather shoes, were all used. The shoes seem to have been just originating at that period; two or three examples are known, but all of them have the leather sandal strap between the toes, and joining to the sides of the heel, to retain the sole on the foot ; the upper leather being stitched on merely as a covering without its being intended to hold the shoe on the foot. These soles are compound, of three or four thicknesses.

Early Middle Kingdom shoes were little more than sandals with straps between the toes and joined to the sides at the heel with the upper leather just covering the foot without being fastened to the foot itself. During the New Kingdom there were times when some Egyptians seem to have taken to occasionally wearing shoes, as in a depiction of Queen Nutmose at Karnak. This may have come about as an influence of the Hittites, with whom they came into contact at this time.

More information about Pharaonic life on:

 http://www.reshafim.org.il/ad/egypt/index.html

Egyptian Food and Cooking

by Diana Serbe with Elinoar Moore

May I walk every day unceasingly on the banks of my water, may my soul rest on the branches of the trees which I have planted, may I refresh myself in the shadow of my sycamore.

Egyptian tomb inscription, ca. 1400 BCE

At the crossroads of Asia and Africa, the river Nile snakes through parched desert lands. On the fertile banks of the mighty Nile early man grew the foods that nourished the most advanced of ancient civilizations - The Egyptian. The Nile was the lifeblood of the people. It served as a means of transportation and a source of food from fishing, but the river was also crucial to agriculture.

From the fragile remnants of papyrus, the records of a civilization, we can glean some data about early Egyptian food. Written in Coptic, Greek, Demotic Egyptian, one page of papyrus might hold a list of foods put on board a ship - wine, bread, pickled fish, honey, and vinegar.  Another might contain a written record of a lawsuit, written in the name of a honey-seller. We are on our way to discovery, but it is the sealed tombs of the dead that will reveal most.

Tombs and Pyramids

The Egyptian attitude to the afterlife is unique in that they view the deceased as beginning a journey outward. In their tombs, devoted to aid the departed on his journey, we are able to reconstruct aspects of daily life and the food of Egypt. Mummification preserved the deceased, and as long as the mummy existed, it was given its portion of furniture, statues, paintings and food for its 'eternal home.' Pottery vessels were used for food offerings which were sealed into the tombs, preserving the foods. The tombs were filled with hieroglyphics and with drawings that often represent agricultural practices, butchering methods, any aspect of daily life.

Add to these sources the chronicles of the Greek Herodotus of Halicarnassus (484 B.C. - 418 B.C.) whose work on natural history amplifies other sources. Herodotus tells us : "Quails, ducks and smaller birds are salted and eaten uncooked; all other kinds of birds, as well as fish, excepting those that are sacred to the Egyptians, are eaten roasted or boiled." Later he says,"the pig is accounted by the Egyptians an abominable animal; and first, if any of them in passing by touch a pig, he goes into the river and dips himself forthwith in the water together with his garments."

We know that barley and emmer, a type of wheat, grew extensively and barley provided the source to make beer. Egyptian farmers kept poultry, (ducks and geese) and raised cattle and goats for milk. Meat came from sheep, pigs and cows, and fish came from the Nile. Vegetables supplemented the diet.

Egyptians liked strong-tasting vegetables such as garlic and onions. They thought these were good for the health. They also ate peas and beans, lettuce, cucumbers, and leeks. Vegetables were often served with an oil and vinegar dressing. Figs, dates, pomegranates and grapes were the only fruits that could be grown in the hot climate. The rich could afford to make wine from their grapes. Baskets of figs have been found in Egyptian tombs.

Having a wide range of food, the poor Egyptian ate a fairly healthy diet including vegetables, fruit and fish. Poultry was mostly roasted for the table, but meat was mainly the privilege of the rich. Seasonings included: salt, pepper, cumin, coriander, sesame, dill, fennel, fenugreek and assorted seeds. The priests who performed the sacrifice of animals to the gods, were probably the only ones to eat beef.

Tomb paintings show hundreds of scenes that depict meat being boiled, while fowl are depicted as roasted. How pork fit into the diet is a mystery. At archeological sites, bones have been unearthed, by the Egyptians generally abstained, believing the vast amount of fat to cause leprosy.

Ancient Egyptian Agriculture

Every year in the heat of summer, the great Nile flooded, spreading over the valleys on its sides. When the water receded, it left behind rich earth deposits swept down from the Ethiopian plateau, a fertile planting ground for the food in the Egyptian diet. Pliny recorded ancient methods of Nile farming. The technique was "to begin sowing after the subsidence of the Nile and then drive swine over the ground, pressing down the damp soil with their footprints." In November they sowed the land, then reaped the harvest in April. The land was so fertile that it was even possible to grow two crops a year. Today the flow of the Nile, the world's longest river, is regulated by the Aswan High Dam.

Bread and Baking in Egypt

Bread was the staple food of most Egyptians. By the 12th century in Egypt, there were bread stalls in the larger villages. Though the poor ate mostly flatbread, the rich had a choice of almost forty types of breads and pastries.

Hot Baladi Bread

The mainstay of Egyptian diets, aysh (bread) comes in several forms. The most common is a pita type made either with refined white flour called aysh shami, or with coarse, whole wheat, aysh baladi. Stuffed with any of several fillings, it becomes the Egyptian sandwich. Aysh shams is bread made from leavened dough allowed to rise in the sun, while plain aysh comes in long, skinny, French-style loaves.

Egypt's remarkable records tell us that bread was made in more than thirty different shapes. They included the flat, round loaf now commonly called pita, still a staple food in Egypt. Sweetened doughs or cakes, treasured as food for the gods, were devised by combining honey, dates and other fruits, spices, and nuts with the dough, which was baked in the shapes of animals and birds. Since there was no sugar, honey was used as a sweetener by the rich, and poor people used dates and fruit juices.

Beer in Egypt

Beer was the national drink, made from the crops of barley. To improve the taste the Egyptians would add spices and it was usually stored in labeled clay jars. Wine for the upper classes was made from local vineyards. After the harvest was gathered, the workers would tread the grapes, and the juice collected . Other wines were made from pomegranates or plums. The Egyptian's basic food and drink, bread and beer, were made from the main crops they grew, wheat and barley. It is speculated that the Egyptians were the first to discover leavened bread. Though undetermined, we can imagine a piece of what we call 'starte'r falling into fresh dough.

Beans in Egypt

Along with aysh, the native bean supplies most of Egypt's people with their daily rations. Ful can be cooked several ways: in ful midamess, the whole beans are boiled, with vegetables if desired, and then mashed with onions, tomatoes, and spices.

FOUL (beans)

This mixture is often served with an egg for breakfast, without the egg for other meals . A similar sauce, cooked down into a paste and stuffed into aysh baladi, is the filling for the sandwiches sold on the street. Alternatively, ful beans are soaked, minced, mixed with spices, formed into patties (called ta'miyya in Cairo and falaafil in Alexandria), and deep-fried. These patties, garnished with tomatoes, lettuce, and tahina sauce, are stuffed into aysh and sold on the street.

Aspects of Cooking in Egypt

Egyptian food was cooked in simple clay pots, using wooden utensils and stored in jars. Fish and meat had to be especially prepared for storage. One common method, evidenced in frescoes, was salting. Another was hanging the fish in the sun to bake them dry. Egypt developed a thriving trade in dried and salted fish.

In ordinary families the cooking was done by the housewife, but larger households employed servants to work in the kitchen and a chef - usually a man - to do the cooking. The Egyptians had ovens, and knew how to boil roast, and fry food. There were few kitchen tools: pestles, mortars, and sieves. Archaeologists have unearthed early mortars with rubbing stones that would probably have been use to separate the chaff from the grain.

Egyptian Foods and Recipes

Ancient Roots - Today's Egyptian Food

The variety of Egyptian recipes is extensive, and utilizes many types of food. With a history of foreign trade, of invasions and the domination of other cultures, (Roman, Greek, Arab among them) Egypt has adopted many ways of preparing food. The influences came mainly from Syria, Lebanon, Turkey, Greece, Palestine, and other Mediterranean countries, but even those were modified in Egypt to a great extent, adapting them to suit Egyptian customs, and tastes to make these foods uniquely Egyptian. The dishes are simple and hearty, made with naturally ripened fruits and vegetables and seasoned with fresh spices. The food in the south, closely linked to North African cuisine, is zestier than that found in the north, but neither is especially hot.

But we must remember that the early Egyptians were accomplished agriculturists. They cultivated pistachios, pine nuts, almonds, hazelnuts, and walnuts, still popular food today. From their orchards came apples, apricots, grapes, melons, quinces, and pomegranates. To this day, Egyptians love vegetables. Ancient gardens featured lettuce, peas, cucumbers, beets, beans, herbs, and greens. Pharaohs thought of mushrooms as a special delicacy.

Egyptian cuisine is known for flavor and its use of fresh ingredients. The staple in every Arab's diet is a bread called Aish (means life), which is a darker form of the Pita bread in the Greek culture. Fava beans are also important in the diet. At an Arab meal, one would expect to have a soup, meat, vegetable stew, bread, salad, and rice or pasta. Their desserts aren't rich like those of many other Arab countries, similar cuisine as it is and most dishes have the same name all over the middle east, mostly fruit is served after a meal. Egypt's cuisine includes bean stew and falafel with veal, lamb and pigeon which is also popular.

Specific Foods 

Boiled cabbage was eaten before drinking bouts to prevent getting drunk. Herodotus records that the slaves who built the Great Pyramid at Giza were kept going on "radishes, onions, and leeks," three of the world's oldest vegetables.

Molokhiyya is a leafy, green, summer vegetable. A traditional dish in Egypt and Sudam, some people believe it originated among Egyptians during the time of the Pharaohs. Others believe that it was first prepared by ancient Jews. Molokhia is nutritious soup made from a type of greens, known as molokhiyya or Jew's mallow (also called Nalta jute, Tussa jute, Corchorus olitorius), which is found throughout and in other Arab countries with the same climate as well as in Israel. Dried or frozen molokhiyya greens may be obtained from Middle Eastern stores worldwide. Consumption of molokhia was banned (along with a great many other things) during the reign of the Fatimid Caliph al-Hakim (c.1000 AD). In addition to molokhiyya, the Egyptians make a variety of meat (lahhma), vegetable (khudaar), and fish (samak) soups known collectively as shurbah, and all are delicious.

Rice (ruzz)is often varied by cooking it with nuts, onions, vegetables, or small amounts of meat. Egyptians stuff green vegetables with mixtures of rice. wara' enab, for example, is made form boiled grape leaves filled with small amounts of spiced rice with or without ground meat.

Potatoes (bataatis) are usually fried but can also be boiled or stuffed.

Salads (salata) can be made of greens, tomatoes, potatoes, or eggs, as well as with beans and yogurt.

Yogurt (laban zabadi) is fresh and unflavored; you can sweeten if you wish with honey, jams, preserves, or mint. It rests easy on an upset stomach.

Rice and bread form the bulk of Egyptian main courses, which may be served either as lunch or dinner. For most Egyptians, meat is a luxury used in small amounts, cooked with vegetables, and served with or over rice.

The Egyptian way of making kebabs is to season chunks of lamb in onion, marjoram, and lemon juice and then roast them on a spit over an open fire. Kufta is ground lamb flavored with spices and onions which is rolled into long narrow "meatballs" and roasted like kebab. Pork is considered unclean by Muslims, but is readily available, as is beef.

Pharaonic Beer Containers

Pigeons (hamaam) are raised throughout Egypt, and when stuffed with seasoned rice and grilled, constitute a national delicacy. If you visiting Egypt, beware: local restaurants sometimes serve the heads buried in the stuffing.

Egyptians serve both freshwater and seagoing fish under the general term of samak. The best fish seem to be near the coasts (ocean variety) or in Aswan, where they are caught from Lake Nasser. As well as the common bass and sole, there are shrimp, squid, scallops, and eel. The latter, a white meat with a delicate salmon flavoring, can be bought on the street already deep-fried.

Native cheese (gibna) comes in two varieties: gibna beida, similar to feta, and gibna rumy, a sharp, hard, pale yellow cheese. These are the ones normally used in salads and sandwiches.

Egyptian desserts of pastry or puddings are usually drenched in honey syrup. Baklava (filo dough, honey, and nuts) is one of the less sweet; fatir are pancakes stuffed with everything from eggs to apricots, and basbousa, quite sweet, is made of semolina pastry soaked in honey and topped with hazelnuts.

Bbouzat haleeb or ice cream is a totally different experience from the rich American ice cream. Its quite light and gummy in texture. It actually stretches a bit as you spoon it. Misika (Arabic gum) and shalab (an extract from the tubers of orchids) can be found in most Mid-Eastern markets

Umm ali is another national dish of Egypt, and is a raisin cake soaked in milk and served hot. Kanafa is a dish of batter "strings" fried on a hot grill and stuffed with nuts, meats, or sweets. Egyptian rice pudding is called mahallabiyya and is served topped with pistachios. French-style pastries are called gatoux. Most homes and places serve fresh fruits for desserts, and it makes a perfect, light conclusion to most meals.

Typical Tea presentation

Although Turkish coffee has a reputation for being tart, its actual flavor depends on the mix of beans used in the grind. The larger the percentage of Arabica, the sweeter and more chocolate flavor. Ahwa comes in several versions: ahwa sada is black, ahwa ariha is lightly sweetened with sugar, ahwa mazboot is moderately sweetened, and ahwaziyada is very sweet. You must specify the amount of sugar at the time you order, for it's sweetened in the pot. Ahwa is never served with cream.

Ancient Egypt

"Egyptian civilization probably began about 3100 B.C., following a predynastic period from 5500 B.C. during which time hunter-gatherers settled in agricultural villages and animals and people migrated into the region from western Asia...During this time, as revealed by evidence from sites in the Fayum region, the population supported itself first by hunting the many wild species that lived in and around the Nile. These included wild fowl, fish, pigs, cattle, antelope, and gazelle. As the population began to establish agricultural communities, the wild pigs and wild cattle were domesticated. Hunting became more of a sport for the wealthy than a means for obtaining food, although poorer people continued to hunt game and wild fowl, and to snare fish to augement their mainly cereal and leguminous diet. Cattle, sheep, and goats were more useful to the poor for their milk, cheese, and butter than for their meat. Agricultural communities grew grains as well as legumes, and these became the major crops of the Nile valley. They provided the two main staples of Egyptian life--bread and beer. Grain was used as a currency, something with which to barter or to pay taxes and wages. The main grain cultivated in Egypt until the fourth century B.C. was emmer; barley was also grown and was probably the grain of the poor. Production of these grains throughout Egyptian history was the main agricultural activity and provided the basic diet of bread for the Egyptians...Grain was also used to make pottage or thicken soup or added to pulses, for lentils, peas, and fenugreek were also common at this time, and were the most important pulses until fava beans were introduced in the Fifth Dynasty. Honey or dates might be used to sweeten the bread...dates were culitvated and...also used to produce a sugary drink...other sources of food were lotus and aquatic plant seeds...Melons, watermelons, and chufa, or yellow nutgrass, were grown. Bread as also used to make the other staple, beer, which was part of the daily ration given to soldiers and workers....The making of beer was woman's work...Wine seems also to have been drunk at this early period."

---Food in the Ancient World, Joan P. Alcock [Greenwood Press:Westport CT] 2005 (p. 136-8)

"It is clear that the Egyptians enjoyed their food. Nobles and priests were particularly well served, with at least forty different kinds of bread and pastries, some raised, some flat, some round, some conical, some plaited. There were some varieties made with honey. Others with milk, still others with eggs. And tomb excavations show what a wide range of other foodstuffs the great had set before them even as early as the beginning of the the third millennium BC--barley porridge, quail, kidneys, pigeon stew, fish, ribs of beef, cakes, stewed figs, fresh berries, cheese...Much time was spent organizing supplies. Until about 2200BC the Egyptians perservered with attempts to domesticate a number of animals like the ibex, oryx, antelope and gazelle, and then, abandoning this fruitless occupation, turned to the more entertaining pursuits of hunting in the marshland preserves, collecting exotic vegetables like wild celery, papyrus stalks and lotus roots, trapping birds and going fishing. The Nile marshes and canals contained eel, mullet, carp, perch and tigerfish...The origins of salting as a preservation process remain obscure. Although in Egypt there was a positive link between salt's use in preserving food for the living and embalming the bodies of the dead. Preservation by drying presents fewer questions, if only because figs, dates and grapes fallen from the tree or vine would dry themselves on the hot sandy soil, and no lengthy period of experiment would be needed to establish that fish, for example, responded well to the same treatment...The peasants' food, like their way of life, was more circumscribed than that of the great officials...Their standard fare may have been ale, onions and common flatbread... bought from a stall in the village street, but they could look forward to quite frequent days of plenty when they feasted on the surplus from temple sacrifices or one of the great high festivals. They ate pork, too."

---Food in History, Reay Tannahill [Three Rivers Press:New York] 1988 (p. 53-4)

[NOTE: These books contain much more information than can be paraphrased here. Your librarian will be happy to help you find a copies.]

Stuffed Pigeon

How did Ancient Egyptians preserve their food?

Ancient Egyptians employed a variety of methods for food preservation. Great silos were constructed to preserve grain for long periods of time. Fish, meat, vegetables and fruits were were preserved by drying and salting. Grains were fermented to create beer.

"There is evidence that as early as 12,000 B.C., Egyptian tribespeople on the lower Nile dried fish and poultry using the hot desert sun. Areas with similar hot and dry climates found drying to be an effective method of preservation...Herodutus, writing in the fifth century B.C., describes how the Egyptians and their neighbors still dried fish in the sun and wind and then strored them for long periods."

---Pickled, Potted and Canned: How the Art and Science of Food Processing Changed the World, Sue Shepard [Simon & Schuster:New York] 2000 (p. 31)

"...the Babylonians and Egyptians pickled fish such as sturgeon, salmon, and catfish, as well as poultry and geese. Sometimes salt was relatively easy to extract; in other parts it was more difficult."

---ibid (p. 76)

"Salt has been used to preserve fish since ancient times, possibly even before meat was cured. The early Mesopotamian civilizations relied on a staple diet of salt fish and barley proridge...Fish curing, depicted in the tombs of ancient Egypt, was so highly regarded that only temple officials were entrusted with the knowledge of the art, and it is significant that the Egyptian word for fish preserving was the same as that used to denote the process of embalming the dead."

---ibid (p. 79)

"For thousands of years the survival and power of a tribe or country depended on its stocks in grain. Harvesting, processing, and storing grain stocks was of huge importance, and war was declared only after harvest...One of the earliest records of large-scale food preserving was in ancient Egypt, where it was enourmously important to create adequate stocks of dried grain to insure against the failure of the Nile to flood seasonally. Huge quantities of grain were stored in sealed silo, where they could be kept for several years if necessary. Records from 2600 B.C. show that the annual flooding of the Nile produced surpluses of grain that were stored and kept to feed builders of irrigation schemes and pyramid tombs. The Great Pyramid of Cheops at Giza was built around 2900 B.C. by slaves fed with stores of grain and chickpeas, onions, and garlic."

---ibid (p. 51)

"Dried saltfish was part of a soldier's rations. Roe from the mullet, a periodic visitor to the canals of the Nile, was also extracted during the drying process of the fish, to be pressed into large flat cakes and preserved."

---Food: A Culinary History, Jean-Louis Flandrin & Masimo Montanari [Columbia University Press:New York] 1999 (p. 42)

Meals & dining customs

"In Egypt banquets started in the early or middle afternoon, but few details are available about the eating of ordinary meals. The basic Egyptian meal was beer, bread, and onions, which the peasants ate daily, probably as a morning meal before they left to work in the fields or on works commanded by the pharaohs. Another simple meal would be eaten in the cool of the evening, probably boiled vegetables, bread, and beer; possibly wild fowl...The wealthy would expect to eat two or een three meals a day comprising vegetables, wild fowl, fish, eggs, and beef. Butter, milk, and cheese were also easily obtainable. Dessert would c onsits of fruit--grapes, figs, dates, and watermelons. In a Saqqara tomb of the Second Dynasty, a full meal was found that had been laid out for an unnamed noble. It included pottery and alabaster dishes containing a porridge of ground barley, a spit-roasted quail, two cooked lamb's kidney's, pigeon casserole, stewed dish, barbecued beef ribs, trianguar loaves of bread made from ground emmer, small round cakes, a dish of stewed figs, a plate of sidder berries, and cheese, all accompanied by jars that had once contained wint and beer. In the Old Kingdom, the Egyptians are around a small table a few inches high, using their fingers to eat. Normally dishes were placed in the center of the table, and each person sitting around dipped berad or a spoon into it. The lower classes continued this form of eating in the New Kingdom, but the upper classes then preferred to sit on tall cushioned chairs. Servants brought around water in small bowls to that guests could wash their hands before and during the meal."

---Food in the Ancient World, Joan P. Alcock [Greenwood Press:Westport CT] 2005 (p. 181-2)

"The Egyptian Banquet. For Egyptian peasants there were some feast days, as at the New Year and after harvest and local religious festivals, but the peasants preferred to be offered sports and pastimes rather than elaborate dining. Meat was probably given to them after religious sacrifices. Dinner parties or banquets appear to have been one of the favorite entertainments for the middle and upper classes of the Egyptians, but literary evidence is scarce. There is no word for banquet in Egyptian...The information for feasts or banquets comes almost entierly from scenes found in tombs. In the Old Kingdom they seemed to be mainly family gatherings...Banquets in the New Kingdom were more elaborate, with family and guests enjoying the meal. Pharaohs gave official banquets...Banquets usually began in midafternoon...The tomb scenes show the guests being greeted by their hosts and servants coming forward to offer garlands of flowers. Next basins of water are offered for the guests to wash their hands...Tomb scenes show men and women on alternate panels as if they ate in separate groups or in separate rooms...Guests could...be seated on...[chairs]... stools or cusions...They ate from small tables, but side tables were seemingly loaded with food in the almost buffet style, although servants would bring the food to the guests and offer them napkins to wipe their mouths. Jugs and basins were placed on stands nearby, ready for washing of hands and feet...The main food would be bread, fruits, pulses, and vegetables. Fruits would have included dates, figs, melons, and possibly fruits imported from other countries. Meat could be in abundance at banquets. Whole oxen were roasted; ducks, chickens, geese, and pigeons were served. Fish seems to have been less popular...Honey was a precious food, mainly the preserve of the wealthy, and therefore expected at feasts. Jars underneath the table held beer, wine, and fermented fruit dirnks...Toasts were drunk to the goddess Hathor...The meal would be accompanied by music...After the meal there might be storytelling or acrobats."

---Food in the Ancient World, Joan P. Alcock [Greenwood Press:Westport CT] 2005 (p. 188-191)

"Cuisine and Social Class. Elite Egyptians ate three daily meals: morning, evening, and night. Laborers probably ate twice daily...Social superiors might include lower-status diners at banquets, with different foods offered to each guest dependign on his or her rank. tablewares varied from magnificent gold, alabaster, and class for the elites to earthenware and base metals for workers. Spoons and knives appeared the table. High-status banquets were often segregated by gener...The genders mixed at family meals, regardless of status. Egyptians buried food with their dead to ensure a comfortable afterlife. Diversity in diet was a mark of wealth...Beer and bread appeared on everyone's table and were the most common form of payment..."

---Cooking in Ancient Civilizations, Cathy K. Kaufman [Greenwood Press:Westport CT] 2006 (p. 43-44)

In ancient Egypt, what would pharaoh feed his guests? 

Same as most rulers, the very best his land and wealth had to offer. And??? Plenty of it!

"The Ancient Egyptians lived well. Although they left no recipe books, we can still get a good idea of what the pharaohs and their people may have eaten from the wall paintings in their tombs, the meals they buried with the dead to ensure that they did not go hungry in the next world, and from the tales of travellers such as the Greek Herodotus."

---Food Fit for Pharaohs: An Ancient Egyptian Cookbook, Michelle Berriedale-Johnson [British Museum Press:London] 1999 (p. 7)

The feast given by King Mereptah in his eighth year for the Festival of Opet served these items: fish (filleted and salted), oxen, ducks (spit roasted), oryx, gazelle (basted in honey), beans, sweet oils (for sauces), celery, parsley, leeks, lettuce, bread, pommegranates, grapes, jujubes, honey cakes, heads of garlic, figs, beer and wine.

Falafel

---Ancient Lives: Daily Life in Egypt of the Pharaohs, John Romer [Holt, Rinehart and Winston:New York] 1984 (p. 51-3)

"A typical, lavish banquet consisted of a group sitting on the floor or at individual round tables. Often they reposed on low chairs or stools under which lay a basin for washing their hands, sometimes with a pet cat or monkey beside it. Men and women ate together, both dressed in flowing linen gowns that reached the floor The women held lotus flowers in one hand for the perfume and wore a perfume cone on their head made of a fatty substance that released a pleasing aroma as heat from the head slowly melted it during the course of the evening. Heaps of food completely covered the small tables There were breads of several shapes and varieties, whole roasted trussed fowl and joints of meat, several kinds of vegetables and assorted fruit...At an actual banquet...various courses would have been served one after another in containers. Plates were not used, but ceramic bowls, or more likely at such formal affairs, blue glazed and painted faience dishes would have held the food. Cups of similar material stood ready for wine and were continually refilled from large pitchers carried by circulating servant girls."

---Daily Life of the Ancient Egyptians, Bob Brier and Hoyt Hobbs [Greenwood Press:Westport CT] 1999 (p. 111-2)

[NOTE: this book has a "meaty" chapter on period foodstuffs (p. 99-115) and several references for further study.]

RECOMMENDED READING

Cooking in Ancient Civilizations/Cathy K. Kaufman (includes modernized recipes)

"The Ancient Egyptians' Diet," Life of the Ancient Egyptians, Eugene Strouhal [University of Oklahoma Press:Norman] 1992

"Food Culture of Ancient Egypt," Food: A Culinary History, Jean-Louis Flandrin & Masimo Montanari [Columbia University Press:New York] 1999

Food in the Ancient World, Joan P. Alcock

Les Pharaons ont été les premiers à célébrer Cham el-Nessim Chanter le printemps et célébrer la fête de la nature  

par : Dalia Hamam
et Ingi Amr

Une fête organisée depuis 5 mille ans ... c'est la fête du printemps. Les pionniers à la célébrer sont les Pharaons. Cette journée témoigne, généralement, d'un afflux de gens vers les lieux publics pour jouir du beau temps et de la nature. Et c'est pour cette raison que l'Etat déploie d'énormes efforts afin de satisfaire les citoyens durant la fête.
"C'est le printemps... Il fait beau temps...
Laisse tout de côté et jouis de ta journée".

Sans écouter ces paroles de Salah Gahine chantées par la Cendrillon Soad Hosni, qui ne peut sentir l'avènement de Cham el-Nessim ? Chacun se prépare en privé et à sa façon. Quelques jours avant, le père achète des œufs, du lupin, du fenugrec, des conserves de poisson ("fésikh", "mélouha" et "harengs") et des bottes d'oignon vert. Ce jour là, les enfants sont les premiers à se lever tôt le matin pour préparer leurs crayons de couleurs. 

Quand la maman termine la cuisson des œufs bouillis, ils se précipitent pour y faire des dessins. Mais après les campagnes de sensibilisation sanitaire qui montrent les risques produits par les couleurs artificielles, la maman utilise des éléments naturels de coloration, comme le thé par exemple qui donne du marron, le céleri, les pelures d'oignons et le chou-fleur qui donnent le jaune, la menthe et le persil qui donnent le vert, les betteraves rouges qui donnent le rouge et l'hibiscus qui donne de la couleur pêche. Au début de l'après-midi, la famille sort se promener et prendra le déjeuner dans un jardin publique.

Une verdure régnante
Les lieux où la verdure règne sont les lieux que préfèrent les gens. Ils sont rattachés à la nature, dans un plein air entouré de fleurs et de plantes. C'est la raison pour laquelle l'Etat prend comme d'habitude les mesures nécessaires concernant les cérémonies du Cham el-Nessim. L'Organisme Général de Transport, Institution jouant le rôle le plus important dans les préparatifs de cette journée, a décrété l'état d'urgence. Plus de 2000 minibus et autobus seront à la disposition du pulic pour faciliter le déplacement des foules vers les lieux de loisirs ou les sites touristiques et religieux sur l'ensemble du territoire. 

Les responsables du trafic vont entreprendre un grand nombre de procédures afin de lutter contre l'embouteillage dans tous les gouvernorats. Notons qu'il existe une coordination entre le Ministère de l'Intérieur et les médias aux moyens de bulletins concernant le mouvement du trafic.
D'ailleurs, les jardins ont été décorés de gerbes de fleurs pour attirer le plus grand nombre de visiteurs. En tête de liste, les jardins de "Qanater". Ceux-ci s'apprête à accueillir environ 2 millions de visiteurs gratuitement dès six heures.
Le Maire de "Qanater", M. Chérif al-Gamassy, a déclaré qu'il y aura des kiosques pour vendre du pain, du poisson et surtout des boissons en grande quantité aux citoyens afin de limiter l'action de l'achat des marchands ambulants. En plus, un "service de crise" sera mis en place dans les jardins pour rendre service aux malades en cas de besoins urgents.
En outre, Le Jardin zoologique de Guiza fait partie des jardins préférés chez les visiteurs, et les enfants en particulier. Il ouvrira ses portes au grand public très tôt le matin. Pour sa part, l'administration du jardin va prendre quelques mesures pour faire face au grand nombre de visiteurs.
Certains animaux rares comme le Chimpanzé, l'ours blanc et quelques reptiles vont être exposés aux visiteurs à l'occasion du Cham el-Nessim. (Le Chimpanzé ne sort jamais de son hibernation permanente car il est très sensible et il a la frousse du public). Quant au bassin des cygnes, ils attendent eux aussi, les visiteurs pour avoir leurs petits morceaux de pain.
Le Zoo organise également un programme de divertissements ainsi qu'un spectacle artistique qui se terminera avec la distribution de prix. De même, des fêtes musicales dans les différents kiosques existants à côté de la vallée des singes vont être préparés.
Quant au jardin "Foustate", il fait partie des jardins de loisirs qui se préparent à fêter Cham el-Nessim. Le directeur du jardin, l'ingénieur Rafik Salah Eldine, a annoncé que la première famille qui entrera dans le jardin aura droit à un petit déjeuner gratuit. Celui-ci est composé d'œufs colorés, de fromage et de pain. Le jardin a témoigné dernièrement d'une restauration globale aux différents coins afin de plaire aux visiteurs.
Notons, enfin, que l'administration de certains jardins remettra des sacs poubelles aux visiteurs dès leur passage dans le jardin dans le but de récolter leurs déchets et éviter de salir le sol au tant que possible

La beauté du kiosquedu Montazah d'Alexandrie

Une curiosité du Montaza d'Alexandrie c'est le pont qui relie la partie nord-est des jardins à l'île. Un premier pont de cent cinquante mètres de longueur avait été construit par le Khédive Abbas II Helmi après avoir acheté ce domaine en 1892 et il fut reconstruit et enjolivé en 1924 par l'architecte italien Verrucci sous le règne du roi Fouad. L'architecte donna à ce pont une architecture néo-byzantine avec des tours carrées et crénelées surmontées de lampadaires. Ce pont vient d'être restauré totalement en respect de son architecture.

Ce pont mène à l'île dont le centre est occupé par un kiosque à thé qui fut construit par le Khédive Abbas II Helmi où il venait prendre le thé l'après-midi, ce qui donna à cet îlot le nom de "île du thé" connue tout simplement maintenant sous la dénomination de Guézireh.

Ce kiosque, aux allures toutes grecques avec ses colonnes doriques et ses sveltes statues hellènes, est une construction très élégante. Sur la façade du kiosque, quelques marches conduisent à un perron entouré d'une balustrade de pierre avec aux quatre angles des statues de femmes grecques. Deux colonnes, entre deux pans de mur, soutiennent le frontispice triangulaire qui donne un aspect de temple grec. Toutes les colonnes, à l'extérieur du kiosque, sont surmontées de chapiteaux ioniques aux quatre extrémités annelées.

Deux pavillons encadrent l'entrée du kiosque qui est occupé, en son centre, par un patio à ciel ouvert. Autour de ce patio court une colonnade dont le colonnes sont surmontées de chapiteaux ioniques simples. Au milieu du patio se trouve un bassin carré aux pans coupés et ce bassin, avec son jet d'eau, est encadré de quatre statues de femmes grecques dans toute leur beauté qui est à peine voilée par un ample péplum élégamment drapé autour d'elles. La partie antérieure du kiosque est occupée par une salle et des offices. Une grande et vaste véranda entourée de colonnes achève ce kiosque

Ce kiosque était pour le Khédive un lieu de rendez-vous dans l'intimité où il venait prendre le thé.

Un peu partout sur cette île se trouvent des fûts de colonnes gréco-romaines ayant fait partie du temple, des habitations et des installations de bains.

Quant aux digues du Montaza qui enferment la baie des Grâces, la première fut construite par le Khédive Abbas II Helmi à partir de 1893 entre le secteur nord-ouest de l'île et le centre de l'entrée de la baie. La roi Fouad compléta cette première construction en y ajoutant un phare et un pont métallique au milieu de la digue.

Cette digue avec son pont et son phare forment l'originalité de ce coin superbe du Montaza dont la petite île en est le joyau.

Palais de Montazah 

Depuis la première Révolution égyptienne de 1952, ce domaine du Montaza est ouvert au public, à l'exception maintenant du palais du Haramlek qui est devenu une des résidences du président de la République.

G.V.

Note: le nouveau pont sur la corniche, au dessus de la baie de stanley est une replique de l'architecture de Montazah.

Once a magnet for Egypt’s high society when it was considered the world’s Ritziest tea room, Groppi, set in Cairo’s Talaat Harb Square, still retains its original mystique although its interior is somewhat faded. Groppi’s, the creation of Swiss pastry maker Giacomo Groppi, has been featured in countless films and extensively written-about.
Groppi stands as a living legend and is still a magnet for visitors to Cairo today. It symbolizes a never to return era; a time of great wealth and ostentation; the days of the Egypt’s kings, princes, pashas, beys and cotton magnets when the Egyptian pound was worth more than either sterling or the dollar. 


It was once a place of political intrigue, a venue where historic deals were done and a beloved haunt of authors, journalists, artists, movie stars and socialites eager to be seen. Those who remember that glittering era first hand are dwindling. The few who still remember wax lyrical about those good old days.

Architect Chafik Nakhla, recalls what Groppi once symbolised for him. 
“Oh how I loved Groppi,” he said with a far-away look in his eyes. Throughout the 1950s, when we lived in Assiut, we regularly spent our summers in Alexandria. En route, we would usually stop for a week at the Shepheard’s Hotel in Cairo. “We children were not allowed outside the hotel without our governess but we would persuade Abdou, the family retainer, to go to the Groppi Garden each morning so as to bring back freshly-baked croissants for breakfast. I can still taste them now.” 


Now steeped in memories of a gentler era, Chafik enthused over Groppi’s Petit Suisse (sweet fromage frais) and its marrons glacés “better than any in Paris”. It was then his wife Marian, an English-language teacher at the American University of Cairo, joined him on his trip down memory lane.


Cairo’s answer to Fortnum and Mason’s
“My parents would often take me to the garden for ice-cream soda with strawberry syrup,” she said. “Christmas and Easter were special times when there were always fabulous displays, a giant Christmas tree, stockings filled with sweets and goodies, life-sized Santas or huge Easter bunnies. You could say that Groppi’s was Cairo’s answer to London’s Fortnum and Mason’s.”

Leon Wahba, who once lived near the Groppi Tea-room on Suleiman Pasha Street, now a citizen of the US, shares that memory. “I was only 13 years when we left Egypt,” he says, but what I recall best was Groppi’s ice-cream, sold off bicycles with coolers. Those ice-cream vendors would often park right outside my school. It was a wonderful treat on those hot Cairo days.”


Adel Toppozada, former Deputy Minister of Information and grandson of former Egyptian Prime Minister Hussein Pasha Rushdy, describes the area around Talat Harb during his youth, as “extraordinary”. 
“Those streets boasted the best coffee shops and tea-rooms but none could compete with Groppi’s. It was normal in those days to see the aristocracy stepping out of a Rolls or a Cadillac for a hairdressing appointment at Socrate or George or Climatianos, which sold exquisite men’s hats and ties. Those were the days when the shops were stocked with anything you could possibly want from Paris, Rome or London.”
“In my student days, we often went to Groppi’s or Locke’s, dressed up to the nines. These were real occasions and people always looked as though they were going to a party, the women in long evening dresses and fur stoles. Groppi’s tea room was the place to people watch and be seen.” 


“Kamel Shenawi the journalist and poet had his own table and I often spotted the author Taufik Al-Hakim, who had a reputation for being a misogynist”. 
“During WWII, Groppi’s on Adly Pasha Street (a second branch of Groppi’s) was frequented by members of Britain’s Eighth Army and was a favourite of General Montgomery, who came to enjoy jazz evenings in the garden,” says Toppozada.

German prisoners
Indeed, Colonel David Sutherland, who was characterised by Dirk Bogarde in the WWII movie “They who Dare”, recounts in his memoirs how he treated two German prisoners to tea at Groppi’s before turning them over to British interrogators. 
How cruel was that? Oh how those men must have suffered during their incarceration longing for those delicious flavours and refined ambience that encapsulated Groppi’s of the day. 
A biography of Admiral Sir Horace Law, a descendant of Horatio Nelson, describes how guests at Law’s wedding party marvelled at a cake made by Groppi’s, the like of which hadn’t been seen in London for years.
But the British weren’t the only ones milling around Groppi’s during the war. 
According to a statement signed by a Fascist spy Theodore John William Schurch, a Swiss national who was incarcerated by the British, Groppi’s was the venue for meetings with his Italian recruiter.
And according to SS archived microfilm, Hitler’s right-hand man Adolph Eichmann visited Cairo in 1937, where he met with a member of the Haganah on October 10 and 11 at Groppi’s – a meeting that some chroniclers of history would prefer to erase. 


A member of the US 98 Bomb Group recounts an evening spent at the Groppi garden in the 40s. “Well into the evening, the musicians stopped playing and all dancers left the dance floor, which was then hydraulically raised two feet to become a stage for the floor show. There were some very accomplished performers… I think they were the best floor show acts I have ever seen.” 
In 1952, due to its British army clientele, Groppi’s tea room narrowly escaped destruction. An anonymous eyewitness recounts the day Egyptian protestors almost burned it down.
“First was the sound of shattering glass of Groppi’s windows. Some of the mob went inside and escorted the employees safely outside. Some climbed for the Groppi’s sign and dismantled the Royal emblem (Confisserie de la Maison Royale) from it. They then proceeded systematically to smash everything in the place.” 


But Groppi’s swiftly recovered and in later years during the 50s” it was fashionable to take breakfast at Groppi’s side-by-side with pashas, famous politicians, artists, writers and editors, such as Ali Amin, Mustapha Amin and Mohammed Al-Tabei,” says Toppozada.
Former UNESCO official and Secretary-General of the Aga Khan Foundation Said Zulficar, who lives in France, has rather less pleasant memories of breakfast at Groppi’s.
“In 1960/61 when I was doing research in Cairo for my PhD thesis, I lived across the street from Groppi’s at the Tulip hotel, which cost EG 1 per night. And so I used to have breakfast every day at Groppi’s, which was the “in place” in Cairo and often sat with other habitués, who assisted me with my research. These included journalists, historians, an ambassador and several members of the French commercial delegation (there was no French embassy since the 1956 Suez War).”


“These daily breakfast meetings went on for some three months after which I fell ill with hepatitis and went to convalesce in my grandmother’s Alexandria flat. I give this detail because my absence from Cairo saved me from a terrible fate.” 


“One morning, the Secret Police raided Groppi and arrested the whole crowd under the accusation (totally trumped up) that the French team was plotting with their Egyptian breakfast colleagues to overthrow the regime. They were imprisoned for over six months but in the end they were all released as there was no proof of any such conspiracy”. 
“I never resumed my daily breakfasts at Groppi’s, nor have I ever returned to the Tulip Hotel, which is still there”, says Zulficar. 


Leftist conspirators and secret police
In his book “Cairo: the City Victorious” Max Rodenbeck describes the ambience of Groppi’s Tea Rooms and the nearby Café Riche, which both had its share of “leftist conspirators and secret police…”. 
In 1981, Groppi was sold to Abdul-Aziz Lokma, founder of the Lokma Group, its present owners, explains Khalim A. El-Khadem, Groppi’s current General Manager. It was then that the bar was closed down and the sale of alcohol banned.
El-Khadem told me that Giacomo Groppi was the first to introduce Egypt to crème-chantilly and ice-cream and his chocolates were of such fine quality they received world-wide renown.


King Farouk was so impressed with the excellence of Groppi’s chocolates that during WWII he sent 100 kilograms as a present to King George for his daughters the princesses Elizabeth and Margaret. 

These, says El-Khadem, were put on a ship which avoided German submarines by taking a circuitous route from Egypt to London via West Africa, Spain, France, Belgium and Scotland. Incredibly, they arrived intact. 


The patisserie, the chocolates, the marrons glacés and the jams were made in Groppi’s factory which still stands today complete with original machines.
“The manufacturing processes were kept strictly secret,” says El-Khadem.
“No single employee was allowed to know every ingredient contained in the final product. There were always two or three chefs employed; each responsible for only one manufacturing phase.” 
“The recipes were all in French, which the employees didn’t understand, so when Groppi eventually hired a Swiss-German to run his factory, he was given French lessons to enable him to read them.” 


El-Khadem admits that not all of Groppi’s products today are made according to the original recipes because consumer demands have changed. 


Ibrahim Mohammed Fadel, Groppi’s longest-serving employee, has worked for the company for 60 years. He worked closely with not only Giacomo Groppi but also his son and “Mr. Bianchi, who become a partner in the 1940s.” 

Naguib Mahfouz
He recalls the days when the former head of Egypt’s Wafd Party Fouad Serageldin was a regular of the Adly Pasha branch, and remembers how the Nobel Prize recipient author Naguib Mahfouz would frequently stop by Groppi’s tea house to read the newspapers. 
It’s a pity that walls can’t talk. Groppi’s encapsulates almost 100 years of Egypt’s history and an elegant, sophisticated milieu that no longer exists; except, that is, in the fading memories of those who were privileged to have been part of that glittering and exciting world. 


Sadly there is little doubt that one day all that will remain of Egypt’s Belle Époque and Groppi’s glory days will be found on celluloid or deep within the pages of novels and biographies.

By: Linda S. Heard