A new weekly series about Egypt
The author of this series "Egyptian Frescoes" André Dirlik was born in Egypt and spentthe first twenty years of his life in Cairo, then moved to Beirut where he studied at the American University. He later completed his studies at Mc Gill University, in Montreal.
André's long career as professor exclusively at the "Collège Militaire Royal de Saint-Jean" was only interrupted when that institution closed it's doors in 1995.
Egyptian Frescoes part (8 of 19) issued with the permission of the author.
Egyptian Frescoes (8): The Khawagah Who Escaped.
He was
born at the Italian Hospital in al-'Abbasiyyah on the day Vladimir Illitch
Ulianov saw the light of day. His father, an admirer of Hitler, had expected
him two days earlier and would surely have named him Adolf. Six days after his
birth, King Fouad 1st (1868-1936) died. His paternal grandmother was a proud
Italian. They named him Andrea after the Genoese Admiral and Condottiere,
Andrea Doria, who had defeated Kupudan Pasha, Khayr ad-Din Baba Awrush
(Barbarossa) and his Moors and Ottomans in the Western Mediterranean Sea. Bad
omen? Only time would tell.
Khawagah
Andariyyah went to Miss Purvis' Kinder Garden in Ma’adi where he and his friend
of previous lives, Adham Safwat, held hands and cried while their mothers
walked away from them on their first day at preschool. A few years later
Andareh and Adham would board the train towards Bal al-Luq Station. Adham would
get off at al-Sayyidah Zaynab to go to Madrasat al-Ibrahimiyyah while he
disembarked at the terminal with other Meadi boys and girls who frequented the
Lycée Français du Caire. These boys and girls were mainly Jewish. In his class,
only he and the Helmy brothers were Christian. There were also a few Christians
and Muslims in other classes.
The question of religious and national identity
was never brought up in those days. In fact, one was taught to never speak
religion, discuss nationality and dissect family in public. That was until
André was moved against his wish to the Jesuit Collège de la Sainte Famille, in
Faggalah. In that school there were Christians, to mean more precisely
Catholics, and non-Christians. We the Catholics, of course, were bound to go to
Heaven in spite of the Original Sin; not the others. Very original indeed.
Andre |
Thank
Sweet Jesus, Andre's mother was Lebanese Arab and a Protestant. His maternal
grandparents, his uncles and his mother were close to the majority of
Egyptians. His great grandmother who raised him would listen to the Qur'an over
the radio every morning when she drank her first cup of coffee. His grandfather
sold life insurance to Egyptians and befriended many of his clients. André
followed in their footsteps. And, yet, he looked like a Khawagah, he felt
comfortable amongst the Khawagat, he partook in the culture which had
impregnated their world. Whenever the radio played Arabic music he changed the
band to Western music. He loved accompanying his parents to the opera. The
Khedivial Opera House, he had learnt, was built by Pietro Avoscani and
inaugurated at the same time as the Suez Canal in 1869. Isma'il Pasha had
commandeered Giuseppe Verdi to compose Aida for the opening night. André, knew
Verdi as his paternal grandmother would sit at the piano, his father
accompanying her at the cello, and she would sing areas from his and Puccini's
after Sunday lunch. In fact, Il Trovatore was performed instead in 1869 and one
had to wait until 1871 for Egyptians and the world to hook on to the Victorious
March of Radamès.
Cairo Opera house |
According
to the 1928 Census, there had settled 24.000 Italians in Egypt. Their role in
conceiving and building, in manufacturing and in tailoring gave one the
impressions they were the majority among the Khawagat. At the eve of the war,
in 1939, their presence was being made felt as they rallied in favour of the
occupation of Libya and Abyssinia by Mussolini. Their newspapers invited the
Duce to occupy Egypt as well. André's father who had been orphaned early on as
a boy having lost his father, originally from the Caucasus, had been raised as
an Italian by an Italian mother and grandmother. He was a member of the Fasci
and displayed his card and uniform proudly. Barely, however, before the British
and Egyptian authorities rounded up the Italians and the Germans and interned
them in Fayid, on the Suez Canal, he bartered his Turkish citizenship for an
Egyptian one and was spared. Like his father whose mother tongue was Turkish,
he spoke little Arabic. He did not need to in his daily activities, as the
Lingua Franca of the Khawagat had become French.
When
the Comédie Française came to town, in the winter of every year, boys and girls
from the numerous French schools in the city boarded busses to the Opera House
to enjoy plays by Molière, Racine and Corneille which they had memorized in
class. It is remarkable that Bonaparte's short expedition into Egypt in 1798
would have caused such a cultural impact on that country. Muhammad 'Ali, of
course, was the first francophile. It is suggested that, in Kavalla where he
was born, Frenchmen traded tobacco with his father and he befriended a few in
his youth. At the opening of the Suez Canal, Empress Eugénie, spouse to
Napoléon III, was guest of honour and congratulated Ferdinand de Lesseps for
his grandiose achievement.
Isma'il who had gone to military academy in
Versailles, spoke fluent French, and so on and so forth. In spite of British
occupation, French schools mushroomed throughout the major cities. Jews,
Greeks, Italians, Shawam and all other ethnic minorities sent their children to
them. Even Edward Said, who was American-born and went with his four sisters to
the English School, had to speak French at the Maadi Sporting Club to feel he
belonged. It is amazing, when one considers the Shawam, descendants of Lebanese
and Syrian Christians whose great grandfathers had emigrated to Egypt, that
they would cease to speak the language of their ancestry, even forget it. In
Egypt, this cost them dearly the day nationalist fervour took them by
surprise. They discovered the hard way they could become francophones but
not French.
Empress Eugénie |
Meanwhile,
they partook like every other Khawagah in the economic adventure of their time.
Wherever French was Langue de Travail, in the Suez Canal, banks like the
Comptoire d'Éscompte de Paris or Crédit Lyonnais, the French-owned Compagnie du
Gaz, French Import-Export establishments and French Engineering firms, or in
the Belgium-owned Tramways, Sugar Refineries, Compagnie d'Héliopolis, a
satellite city which Baron Empain had conceived and built in partnership
with the Armenian, Boghos Nubar in 1905, and in which many Shawan chose to
live, Shawam were employed. They were also involved in running two dailies, Le
Progrés Égyptien and La Bourse Égyptienne which shaped and reinforced the
visions of all Khawagat, whatever their origins and affiliations. The Shawam
got into textile weaving, soap manufacturing, perfumes, oil pressing and,
later, light industries. Trade in lumber, pharmaceuticals, cinemas, anything
that earned money was, also, of interest to them. They even made Tarabish,
plural of Tarbouche, according to Robert Solé.
The
Khawagat were impervious of all that was happening around them both in Egypt
itself and around the world. When the Second World War erupted half a million
troops from the British Empire came to beef up the 10.000 men and 400 airmen
which the Anglo-Egyptian Treaty allowed. Martial Law was imposed. The conflict
was far away.
Prosperity was at hand. Restaurants and bars were full. So were
the cinemas. Life at the Sporting Clubs, which the British has erected for
themselves at first then for others, now catered to the moneyed class. Andre's
maternal grandmother, meanwhile, insisted that her family accompany her at
Kishkish out of loyalty to her past: Naguib al-Rihani, a Lebanese-Egyptian was
referred to as the Molière of the Arabs. His humour was biting, à l'Égyptienne.
He spared no one. While he entertained in Arabic, his sketches were
forewarning: he may have foretold of the Ides of March. No one listened.
Ahmed Shawki |
Time
had been ticking for al-Khawagat. Ask your Armenian watchmaker. The bulk of the
Armenians who reached Egypt had survived a genocide no one ever heard of. That
batch of Armenians was very poor. It was also very skillfull. Watchmakers,
jewellers, mechanics, photographers, hard working and thorough. Norton
pharmacies employed Armenians because they spoke Turkish and because they were
reliable. Armenians were artistic and fine sportsmen and Nubar, the accountant
at the main pharmacy, often took André to witness his team, the Homenetmen,
beat Maccabi and other teams at basket ball or foot ball. In 1945, at the end
of the war, two Soviet ships docked in Alexandria: they had come to carry those
Armenians who had not done well to Soviet Armenia. Nubar the accountant was
amongst them. Baron Matossian, the cigarette manufacturer, was not.
Andre's
mother was a close friend to the one he called Tante Khadigah. Khadigah was the
niece of Ahmed Shawqi (1868-1932), the one all Egyptian literati named the
Prince of Poets. Both ladies would read Shawqi's poems loud and marvel at the
feelings which were expressed so exquisitely and poignantly. Shawqi lived
partly in Alexandria and was a contemporary of Constantine Kavafis (1863-1933).
They never met nor were they aware of one another.
Kavafis is considered one of
the greatest literary figures of the Twentieth Century. He was born and died in
Alexandria. His soul belonged to Byzantine Constantinople and his language was
that of Homer. Marguerite Yourcenar, in her preface to his poems,
wrote: "c'est un des plus grands, le plus subtil en tout cas, le plus
nourri pourtant de l'inépuisable substance du passé. Il redonne vie à des
mots à jamais péris. Il nous entretient des thèmes les plus marginaux. Il offre
des détails que l'Histoire laisse de côté. Sa pensée est d'une intimité
fugitive et il porte des regards attendris et émus sur la réalité".
Constantine Kavafis |
No
doubt, the ethos of the Khawagat had burgeoned in the fertile land of Egypt, a
land in which the bright sun is welcome in the open air as well as behind
shutters in the afternoon. And the clean breeze from the desert blows all bad
dreams away. And, the environment is nonchalant and, at the same time, charged
with challenges and opportunities. And, Muslim and Arab Egypt which lurk in the
surroundings increases the sense of belonging to something particularly
pleasing because it was unique in structure and kind. Like in a frescoe by
Diego Riveira, the eye and the mind will tell of different stories, all epic,
whether one stares from afar or is close, from an angle or from the front, from
the right to the left and vice versa. One constantly has to remember how it was
and how it became, why it was and why it should not have lasted. It is then
that one is able to escape from there and from oneself.