Typical fūl medames “Vicia faba“ is
served as breakfast by an Egyptian street vendor with pickled vegetables, as well as fresh rocket (arugula) leaves
on the side and plenty of Baladi (local) bread.
Fūl Street Vendor |
History
The Egyptian used Broad beans (Vicia
faba L.), as a popular food in Egypt for a long time. The oldest known broad
beans have been found in 5th dynasty tombs. They were mentioned in one of
Ramses II's paeans on himself:
"Lower Egypt rowed to Upper Egypt for you, with barley, wheat, salt and beans without number." Stele of Ramses II, year 8-9
Breakfast is ready.. |
In medicine beans were used in
remedies against constipation, in a remedy for a sick tongue or a treatment for
male urinary complaints.
According to Herodotus, who
travelled through Egypt in the Late Period, beans were ritually unclean and
were not grown for human consumption:
"Beans moreover the Egyptians do not at all sow in their land, and those which they grow they neither eat raw nor boil for food; nay the priests do not endure even to look upon them, thinking this to be an unclean kind of pulse." Herodotus, Histories II
Preparing fūl meal |
Diodorus thought that the
Egyptians were forbidden to eat beans and chick peas in order to teach them the
value of abstention. But legumes were found as offerings in tombs. During the
times of Ramses III the priests of Thebes and Memphis received donations of
beans. Lupins, lentils, chick peas and peas (since the Middle Kingdom) were
also consumed. Lentils, easily kept dry, were used in trading. According to the
story of Wenamen's journey 21 measures of lentils were part of the payment the
Egyptian ambassador gave to the ruler of Byblos for a shipload of timber.
More evidence of the use of fūl in
the middle east was in a cache of 2,600 dried wild beans unearthed at a late
Neolithic site on the outskirts of Nazareth.
Fūl
The qidra |
The word medames was originally “Coptic”,
meaning "buried", and it’s use here might mean that the beans are
buried in the pot, but the most plausible explanation is that the pot was
buried in the smouldering ashes for long hours. This cooking method is mentioned
in the Talmud Yerushalmi, indicating that the method was used in Middle Eastern
countries at least since the fourth century.
Qidra |
Fūl plant |
Although there are countless ways
of embellishing fūl, the basic recipe remains the same. Once the fūl is cooked,
it is salted and eaten plain or accompanied by olive oil, corn oil, butter,
clarified butter, buffalo milk, basturma, fried or boiled eggs, tomato sauce,
garlic sauce, tahini, fresh lemon juice, chili peppers, or other ingredients
including Cumin.
Fūl is prepared from the small,
round bean known in Egypt as fūl ḥammām
("bath beans"). Other kinds of Fava beans used by Egyptian cooks are
fūl rūmī ("Roman"), large kidney-shaped Fava beans, and fūl baladī
(local beans, which are of middling size).
Fresh ful pods |
Fūl akhḍar ("green fūl") are the fresh Fava beans
in their pods eaten mostly in spring during “Sham El Nassim”. Grains of green fūl is also cooked in a tomato sauce as a vegetable dish.
sprout beans |
Fūl nābit (sprout beans) are dried Fava
bean soaked in water until they sprouts then they are boiled, it is normally
eaten as a soup.
Bisara |
The fūl madshūsh ("crushed
fūl") are dried crushed Fava beans, they normally are used to make the
famous Falafel (Tamieh) patties that are basically made from Fūl madshush, some spices and then deep fried. Another
dish is “Besara” a variant of cracked Fūl and green coriander, leaks and many
more green spices presented as puree garnished with fried onions.
Falafel patties |
Each family, group, village or
country has it own variation of how to prepare Fūl, for example the fūl
Iskandarani (From Alexandria) ispresented with parsley and cotton oil, Fūl
Domiati (From Damietta) with eggs and sunflower oil etc...
Typical Fūl meal |
Amazingly enough Fūl will blend
with almost any type of culinary ingredient to suite different tastes. Some recipes
will pass it through a strainer to get rid of the skin and present it like a
puree again garnished with oil and lemon.
Fūl medames was exported from
Egypt to other parts of the Arabic Speaking World, as well as other parts of
Africa and Asia, but particularly to Lebanon, Syria, Palestine, Jordan, Yemen,
Sudan and Libya.
Fūl is a popular breakfast dish in
Syria, especially Aleppo. The Fava beans are left simmering in large copper
jars throughout the night, to be served the next morning, the beans swim in
tahini and olive oil, completed with a hint of red pepper paste (made from
Aleppo pepper) over the top.
Fūl is a very common dish in
Armenia, however unlike most Middle Eastern countries, it is modified with more
exclusive and rare spices and not to forget "Bastourma".
In Somalia, fūl is eaten with a pancake-like
bread called laxoox (canjeero/injera). It is also part of Ethiopian cuisine,
where it is one of the only dishes not served with Ethiopia's traditional injera
(flatbread). Instead, fūl is served with standard flour bread, often providing
a communal kitchen for patrons seeking to bake such types of breads. The beans
are topped, or mixed with, a combination of oil and Berber spices.
In Malta, fūl bil-toome (beans
with garlic) is usually associated with fasting during Lent and Good Friday.
The beans are cooked in oil with garlic and fresh or dried mint, and then
dressed with olive oil or vinegar before serving.